Return with fashion to the buttoned-up '70s

In their fall collections, designers engaged in a cover-up.

February 22, 2011|By Elizabeth Wellington, Inquirer Fashion Writer
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  • Mad for plaid: Pantsuit, skirt by Tory Burch.
  • Mad for plaid: Pantsuit, skirt by Tory Burch.
  • Diane von Furstenberg gravitated to green - in the spearmint fur jacket and the pants.
  • Michael Kors showed his strong suit: Bringing a touch of feminity to a tailored look.
  • Ralph Rucci's reds were ravishing. He applied a red band to the hem of a black dress.
  • Nanette Lepore triumphed with turquoise on a sheer knit dress with ruffles down the torso.

Frumpy is the new funky.

New York's fall 2011 runways at Lincoln Center were packed last week with conservative looks of longer skirts and button-up blouses.

Main Line favorite Tory Burch led the pack with a series of plaid, polka-dot, and pleated dresses with long sleeves and high necks reminiscent of the '70s working girl. Designer Yoana Baraschi featured a long-sleeved tan-and-black polka-dot dress with a high neck and tie - which she called "the librarian."

"People are finally more interested in covering up," Baraschi said at her presentation. "We are trying to be sexy and be alluring at the same time."

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The result is going to be a fall that's both retro and wearable. Tailored pants will replace leggings - which will have their last hurrah this summer. Long tunics will be replaced by cardigan sweaters that stop at the hip. Glitter and shimmer will remain, but in smaller quantities on shirts and accessories - the flower on a cloche or other accent piece, for instance.

As for the designers who are popular at Philadelphia-area boutiques, they followed (a simpler) suit.

BCBG Max Azria featured three-quarter-length skirts and jumpers paired with vests and petal-thin turtlenecks.

Lela Rose focused on shifts with long sweaters and cardigans in soft watercolor prints. Her knee-length socks were an absolute hit.

Nanette Lepore sprinkled springtime shades into her tailored pieces. But one sheer knit turquoise dress featuring ruffles down the torso was a scene-stealer.

Nicole Miller worked clever folding techniques into her dresses that had color blocks of slate blue-gray and pops of orange - very discreet yet futuristic.

Michael Kors - an expert at making tailored looks appear feminine - experimented with color, working mauve into his mostly black and camel palette.

But the most significant change noticed on the fall runways was the menswear influence, said Constance White, a New York fashion expert whose own outfit demonstrated the latest trends: a soft tailored dress under a fur vest. "But it was very soft and streamlined." In many cases, the menswear looks alternated with the womenswear, usually something soft and sexy. "It was about balance this season," she said.

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