Close at hand and delicious

When a Kensington couple buys food from regional purveyors, it's not so much to make a point as it is the luscious taste.

March 03, 2011|By Dianna Marder, Inquirer Staff Writer
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  • Guests Charlie Kaier and Emily Gunther (from left) share the meal  all of it from regional purveyors  with their hosts John Vick and Amanda Jaffe in Kensington.
  • Guests Charlie Kaier and Emily Gunther (from left) share the meal  all of it from regional purveyors  with their hosts John Vick and Amanda Jaffe in Kensington.
  • John Vick's biscuits are made with Lancaster cornmeal and Quarryville buttermilk.
  • Vick and Jaffe cook dinner, watched by their dog Boris. The chicken they served came from a farm outside Princeton, the salad greens were hydroponically grown in Fairton, N.J., and other ingredients likewise were local. Just really delicious is Vicks description of locally produced food.
  • All Blue potatoes, from an organic grower in Hustontown, Pa., will be mashed as an accompaniment to the roast chicken.
  • The makings for Chicken in Milk, a Jaffe and Vick favorite from chef Jamie Oliver's cookbook.
  • Amanda Jaffe prepares chicken from a farm near Princeton.

Dinner at the Kensington home of John Vick and Amanda Jaffe is as simple as roast chicken, mashed potatoes, salad, and biscuits - and as complicated as farm-raised, sustainably grown, homemade, and locally sourced.

Jaffe uses chicken from Griggstown Quail Farm outside Princeton, unaltered by hormones or antibiotics.

Vick mashes the All Blue potatoes, a variety that produces colorful flesh as well as skin, from Tuscarora Organic Growers in Hustontown, Pa., adding butter from Hometown Provisions in Lancaster County and whole milk from Trickling Springs Creamery in Chambersburg, Pa.

For his biscuits, Vick blends heirloom cornmeal from Rineer Family Farms in Lancaster and buttermilk from Maplehofe Dairy in Quarryville, Pa.

The salad greens, baby arugula, and baby spinach were grown hydroponically at Woodland Produce in Fairton, N.J., by a farmer who recently got a grant from the USDA to install photovoltaic cells in order to run his greenhouses on solar energy.

For dessert, Jaffe made an apple cake with two Mutsus and two Ida Reds from Beechwood Orchards in Biglerville, Pa. Even the beer, Flying Fish Amber Ale, is brewed in Cherry Hill.

Get the picture?

For Vick and Jaffe, who bike to work at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, where he is in special exhibitions and she's a photographer, eating is all about the sourcing.

This couple and their cohorts put a premium on knowing who grew it, how, and what distance it traveled.

"Five years ago, this wasn't on my radar," Vick says, "but now, eating this way makes me feel I am supporting the local community I am part of."

They eat this way for the pleasure it brings them, not from a zealot's sense of responsibility.

"Local food is just really delicious. There is nothing like good fresh butter," Vick says. "When we make our grocery lists we write down good butter and 'bad butter' because sometimes we need bad butter - unsalted - for baking."

Vick and Jaffe often share dinners with like-minded friends. Emily Gunther, produce manager at the Fair Food Farmstand in the Reading Terminal Market, and her partner, Charlie Kaier, a WHYY engineer, shared the chicken, blue potatoes, salad, and biscuits meal, for example.

At the Farmstand, Gunther stocks only produce grown within 150 miles of Philadelphia, which leaves out blood oranges, grapefruit, bananas, avocados, olive oil, and myriad foods that start elsewhere and are "finished" locally, such as chocolate, tea, and coffee.

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