New highbrow brew

March 17, 2011|By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic
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  • Espresso at La Colombe's Rittenhouse Square shop: It still rates, but there are coffee comers.
  • Espresso at La Colombe's Rittenhouse Square shop: It still rates, but there are coffee comers.
  • Varnana Beuria, owner of Chhaya, prepares decoction coffee at her cafe at 1823 E. Passyunk Ave.: Brewing performance art.
  • Espresso pours from a portafilter at Ultimo Coffee Bar. No coffee shop in the city is doing more things right.

If most normal humans are made up of nearly 90 percent water, I am at the very least 80 percent coffee.

Not only do I drink it from morning to night, loving the hot black spark perking through my body and mind, I've come to savor its myriad roasty flavors, the manual craft of brewing gear, and especially its culture of rituals - which can be oh-so-hard to change.

Like most discerning Philadelphians, my ritual for more than a decade has been a cup of La Colombe, the city's "house brew," judging by the number of restaurants and cafes that have a pot of Corsica or shot of Nizza at the ready. We've been lucky to have such quality brewing here for the last 17 years.

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That ritual, though, may be about to change.

We've seen a caffeine rush of independent new cafes brimming with coveted single-origin beans from hip out-of-town roasters such as Stumptown and Counter Culture, and equipped with the latest in brewing techniques. That could mean a $14,000 Strada espresso machine or a primitive Hario kettle and V60 cone filter for the "pour-over" bar, where every cup is ground and steeped to order.

You may not yet have heard of Ultimo, Shot Tower, Elixr, Bodhi, or Chhaya - but you will. That's because these and a handful of others from the so-called Third Wave are challenging La Colombe for local coffee supremacy, at least in terms of quality. (If Maxwell House was the first wave and Starbucks the second, Third Wavers now quest for the ultimate foodie brew.)

After 99 cups (and counting) over the last few weeks, I know. I've scrutinized each shot, foamy cappuccino, and handmade brew along the way of a cafe quest that led me through 33 stops from South Philly to Northern Liberties and Bala Cynwyd.

I've got the fast-typing jitters to prove it.

 

The caffeine chase

Life speeds up on a mission like this, and it's best not to ride that rocket ship alone (especially in a Philly Car Share with the meter ticking). So, with a plan to rate three different drinks at every cafe on a 10-point scale, I recruited java-centric colleagues who were eager to join me and keep the ratings consistent.

The whole enterprise, of course, depends partly on the baristas who happened to be behind the counter when we walked in. Skills varied widely, even at the same cafe.

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