Assessing the impact of menu nutrition labeling law

March 23, 2011|By Don Sapatkin, Inquirer Staff Writer
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  • Eating a turkey sandwich at Subway, Kiara Dennis, 21, isn't swayed by calorie listings. A federal law could replace Philadelphia's strict rules.
  • Eating a turkey sandwich at Subway, Kiara Dennis, 21, isn't swayed by calorie listings. A federal law could replace Philadelphia's strict rules.
  • Five year-old Alex shares a McDonald's french fry with his dad Mike Goonewardene of Royersford in the food court at 30th Street Station. "We didn't buy the Happy Meal," dad said, "and no sugary drink." He also shared some of the collared greens from his rib platter purchased from Delilah's - which does not post calories because the menu law applies only to chains. Mom had a Greek salad from Saladworks. (Tom Gralish )
  • Negail Copes of Frankford eats her Subway meatball sub with co-worker Darlene Hightower during their lunch break in the food court at 30th Street Station. Copes says she never looks at the calories but adds, "I should be looking at the sodium at least." (Tom Gralish )
  • Menu advertisement on display outside Subway, in the food court at 30th Street Station. (Tom Gralish )

Kiara Dennis, 21, took a break from her turkey breast sandwich to say that she never looks at the calories listed on the menu board at Subway on North Broad and Spring Garden Streets.

At 30th Street Station, Nancy Callahan, 65, vividly recalled the first time she noticed the calorie listings at Starbucks, where she always ordered a healthy-tasting scone: "It was almost 500! I couldn't believe it." Now she buys lower-calorie choices that are actually sweeter.

One year after Philadelphia introduced the strictest menu-labeling law in the country, the impact depends on whom you ask. The federal government on Wednesday is expected to announce details of a national version that is weaker in some ways and stronger in others.

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Whether either one succeeds in helping to improve eating habits that are linked to chronic diseases - or merely clutters up menus - will likely be debated for years.

Are consumers shocked upon discovering that, say, Applebee's Teriyaki Shrimp Pasta, listed in the "Unbelievably Great Tasting & Under 550 Calories" section, contains 3,410 milligrams of sodium - more than double the recommendations for most adults? (More to the point: Do they change their order?)

Are restaurants so embarrassed by the contents of their food that they reformulate the most extreme items?

Could a lot of little changes - a slight impact from labels, a little more exercise and less soda, a better background in nutrition from school - eventually shift the national eating pattern from just above to just below the max?

"There is no silver bullet," said Rogan Kersh, a professor of public policy at New York University. Kersh, who is studying the impact of labeling here and elsewhere, compared food-related prevention strategy to how doctors treat a patient with complex health issues: "We wouldn't try one thing and see if it works."

The idea of placing nutritional information right next to price and description on menus - visible at the "point of purchase" - has been around for only a few years. Initially the restaurant industry bitterly opposed the move, and unsuccessfully sued to stop the first mandate, in New York City, which began in mid-2008.

As local variations of the concept began popping up around the country, however, restaurants decided to seek uniform national guidelines. Those became part of the federal health-care overhaul, which was signed by President Obama on March 23, 2010 - and gave the Food and Drug Administration one year to write the regulations.

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