Crazy for coconut? Enjoy it - carefully

April 21, 2011|By Maria Zankey, mankeym@phillynews.com 215-854-5444
  • Coconut Oil and Carrot Cake.

DON'T FEEL too guilty as you crack open that coconut-cream Easter egg, though you might want to save half for later. After nearly two decades of being considered "forbidden" in a healthy diet, coconut and products made with it are being viewed in a new light by some scientists, health nuts and chefs.

Coconut - be it oil, meat, water or milk - has gone from being a cholesterol criminal to an antiviral, antimicrobial and antifungal "super food."

Monica Glass, dessert chef at 10 Arts Bistro & Lounge by Eric Ripert in the Ritz-Carlton, said she inadvertently stumbled upon coconut oil as a potential cooking fat when Googling cholesterol-friendly recipes about two years ago.

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"Coconut oil was showing up in a lot of gluten-free recipes," the West Chester native said. "Bad cholesterol runs in my family, so that was really my main reason for trying it."

Now, Glass said, she frequently uses a tablespoon "here or there" while cooking at home - mainly in granola bars or her favorite gluten-free muffins. "It makes a very good substitute for sautéing carrots or other vegetables, mainly because it can be liquid or sit firmer like butter. If you use enough of it, you can definitely taste the coconut flavor in your baked goods."

Glass said her next venture in the kitchen with coconut oil will be using it as a key ingredient to conquer a gluten-free pie or tart crust.

But neighbors haven't been knocking on doors for a cup of coconut for very long.

The public uproar over coconuts, namely coconut oil, began in the mid-'80s when advertising campaigns funded by the American Soybean Association and the National Health Savers Association brought tropical oils' high levels of saturated fats to light: 86 grams compared with just 36 grams in lard.

The tropical oils terror was further drawn out in the mid-'90s when the Center for Science in the Public Interest released data revealing that most movie theater concession stands popped their corn in coconut oil because of its ability to cook at a high temperature without smoking. A large tub of popcorn popped in coconut oil, the CSPI said, bulged with nearly 1,600 calories and four days' worth of saturated fat, double that of a serving of fettuccine Alfredo.

But apparently, comparing oils and saturated fats can be like comparing apples and oranges. The refined coconut oil used in those movie theaters in the '90s is not the same as the unprocessed virgin coconut oil found in health food stores today.

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