Changing Skyline: Delightful pier park brings hope to waterfront

May 06, 2011|By Inga Saffron, Inquirer Architecture Critic
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  • Landscape architect James Corner sits at the end of the Race Street Pier that he designed for the Delaware waterfront.
  • Landscape architect James Corner sits at the end of the Race Street Pier that he designed for the Delaware waterfront. (RON TARVER / Staff Photographer )
  • Railings and decking were still being installed , and some planting remained to be completed, but the Race Street Pier is set to open Thursday. This is a view from the Ben Franklin Bridge. (ED HILLE / Staff Photographer )
  • A colored light screen , as envisioned here, will brighten the I-95 underpass along Race Street. Artist Dick Torchia is working on the project, which is to be finished in July. (Field Operations )
  • The Ben Franklin Bridge soars above the Race Street Pier, opening Thursday after plantings and other last-minute work. The perspective of the line of trees and plantings will draw visitors' eyes toward the water. (ED HILLE / Staff Photographer )

When a new city park opens Thursday on the Delaware waterfront, on a narrow finger pier at the foot of Race Street, Philadelphia will have finally beaten the curse of Penn's Landing.

That desert of unrealized dreams, of course, still takes up 13 acres of valuable real estate, a modern ruin of crumbling walkways, parking lots, and the forgotten monolith of a never-finished tram. But now that the Delaware River Waterfront Corp. has successfully completed a cozy new park a few blocks north, the 40-plus years of failure at Penn's Landing don't sting as much. The city has moved on.

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It helps that Race Street Pier is everything that Penn's Landing is not. The park is easily accessible from Center City and the adjacent neighborhoods by foot, bike, and car (although the transit options aren't so good). When visitors arrive, they can enter the park from a real urban sidewalk on a real urban street. As they proceed along the 540-foot pier, the powerful design ensures that they are thoroughly immersed in the experience of being on the river.

The new $6.5 million park promises to do for the Delaware what the Schuylkill Banks trail did for the city's little river, becoming an after-work mecca for picnics, fishing, and lounging. People do go to Penn's Landing, but primarily for scheduled events. If Race Street Pier makes the Delaware a place to hang out, it will become harder for the city to continue ceding precious frontage to undesirable uses like big-box stores, casinos, and parking garages.

Race Street Pier is all of one acre, but the design by Field Operations - the same firm that gave Manhattan its wildly popular High Line Park - feels far more spacious than its diminutive size would suggest. The designers manage to squeeze in a boardwalk, a lawn, a small amphitheater, a bosque of trees, meandering paths, and plenty of benches by manipulating the surface topography.

The word topography comes up a lot in conversations with James Corner, Field Operations' founder and head of landscape architecture at the University of Pennsylvania. Like a natural landscape, the pier contains multiple ecosystems. It moves from lowland to upland, from the open, unshaded boardwalk savanna through stands of swamp oaks and sweet gums, and down to a soft mound of an oval lawn, whose slope was sculpted to support the backs of hardworking sun worshipers.

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