BY NIGHT, he serves dinner for $135 per person. By day, he serves . . . chicken tenders?
Philadelphia chef-restaurateur Marc Vetri is haute, yet dudelike: He's into fast bikes and light-as-air spinach gnocchi with brown butter. His business partners are guy-gourmets, too. Manager Jeff Benjamin likes country singer Kenny Chesney and fine Italian wine. Chef Jeff Michaud goes for boxing gyms and melt-in-your-mouth pasta. Still, no matter how rugged their pastimes, team Vetri has built a big-time business pleasing the hoity-toity set via superchic Italian grub.
Since 1998, Vetri, the chef's first place, has been Center City's most exclusive ristorante. North Broad Street's Osteria, his team's second, specializes in wood-fired pizzas topped with octopus or pistachio pesto. Amis, their newest, serves little plates - grilled veal tongue, Swiss chard ravioli, extra-fancy meatballs - that add up to big bucks.
