Skygazers find nirvana in spot in northern Penna.

July 05, 2011|By Tom Infield, Inquirer Staff Writer
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  • Ari Bach, 31, and Aaron Schaefer (right), 34, both of Washington, view the Milky Way at Cherry Springs State Park, a spot in northern Pennsylvania that is remarkably free of light pollution.
  • Ari Bach, 31, and Aaron Schaefer (right), 34, both of Washington, view the Milky Way at Cherry Springs State Park, a spot in northern Pennsylvania that is remarkably free of light pollution. (DAVID SWANSON / Staff Photographer )
  • "You're looking back in time," said Ted Friel of Downingtown, attaching a camera with a telephoto lens to a stand to steady it. (DAVID SWANSON / Staff Photographer )
  • The Milky Way is a dramatic presence at Cherry Springs State Park, with a jet crossing this view. The International Dark-Sky Association certifies the park as an "international dark sky park." (DAVID SWANSON / Staff Photographer )

CHERRY SPRINGS STATE PARK, Pa. - This is one of the darkest places in the Eastern United States, an oasis of blackness so deep it must be what our ancestors saw at night.

A little after 9, as twilight turned itself down, Dwight Dulsky, an art teacher and amateur astronomer from Bucks County, saw the first light snap on.

It was the bright star Vega, the master of ceremonies, opening the show on a rare, perfect night, with a clear sky and no moon over the endless, big woods of northern Pennsylvania.

Several dozen stargazers had pitched tents on an open hilltop last week, amid 262,000 acres of state forest, to do what an ever-diminishing number of Americans can do at home: See the night sky in all its brilliance.

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"Look! There's Deneb!" Dulsky pointed to the left of Vega. And there was Altair, lower and right, completing the Summer Triangle.

Next came Saturn, then the earliest lights in the constellation Scorpius. Minute by minute, the sky was thicker and thicker with stars.

By 10:30, when full darkness had settled in, the Milky Way - with its billions of stars - was a smoky belt running north to south across the entire sky.

Dulsky, of Perkasie, struggled to put into words what he was seeing. Finally, he decided he could not.

"It's unlike anything you'll see in the Philadelphia suburbs," he said. "It's awesome."

Many 21st-century Americans have never seen what you can see here, 2,300 feet above sea level, in one of the most thickly wooded regions of the Mid-Atlantic.

The nearest town, the tiny Potter County seat of Coudersport, is 500 feet lower and 15 miles away.

At sunset, more deer and turkeys than cars roam the narrow two lanes of Route 44. What little light might intrude from the road is blocked by tall stands of firs.

The International Dark-Sky Association, which lobbies in Washington to curb light pollution, has certified Cherry Springs as one of a handful of "international dark sky parks" in the nation.

What that means, director Bob Parks said, is not only that the park is very, very dark, but also that local organizations are working to keep it that way by turning down lights where possible and capping lights that remain on.

Parks said of Cherry Springs: "It is one of the darkest places east of the Mississippi."

Some dark-sky enthusiasts would hold out for a corner of West Virginia as just as dark or darker. And parts of Acadia National Park in Maine could make a case for bragging rights.

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