If you haven't heard of the service that can cost hundreds of dollars, it's a retexturizing process in which keratin proteins are applied to the hair with heat, supposedly delivering smoother, softer, frizz-free tresses. And those treatments - especially popular with women who spend their morning hours wielding blow-dryers and round brushes - will last longer, product-makers swear, if they stay away from protein-stripping sulfates.
Since 2006 Edmondo Blando has seen a "dramatic increase" in customers wanting keratin treatments at his Center City Salon Vanity - creating an even greater sulfate-free demand. "We do two to four a day in May through August, and then one a day, for sure, all year."
But even non-keratin users have started snubbing sulfates because the chemicals are also thought to irritate the scalp and strip the hair color that people pay a pretty penny for.
It's likely why Vanity now sells more sulfate-free than sulfate-full shampoos these days. "I believe it's because of the marketing hype, and also because our customers are more educated, and understand that sulfates will strip out color and essential oils faster," Blando said. Be on the lookout for more sulfate-free products, like mousses and gels and even body washes, he says.
Helene Golombek of Mount Laurel describes her pre-keratin hair as "frizzy, unmanageable ... think Monica on Friends when she was in Mexico." But she admits that although it's been about a year since her last treatment, she's hooked on the sulfate-free shampoos - even though having less of the bad stuff can mean coughing up more coin. "I think it's worth the money. I think my hair is healthier and shinier."