What's a reserve wine?

August 18, 2011

WELCOME TO Cheap Buzz, where we eavesdrop as sommelier Marnie Old attempts to teach the joys of wine and fine spirits to Buzz, a guy with no sophistication and not much money. Here's their latest conversation:

BUZZ: Hey Marnie, I was buying a bottle of Mad Dog 20/20 when I noticed a Kenwood Reserve Chardonnay. It was more expensive than a Kenwood regular! A reserve costs more? That's like paying Wilson Valdez more than Jimmy Rollins.

MARNIE: Reserve means something different in wine than in baseball, Buzz. Reserve wines aren't backup wines. They're wines that are "held back" - given special treatment in winemaking, usually longer aging.

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BUZZ: My brother was held back. Third grade. And it did make him better. But why don't all wines get special treatment?

MARNIE: Special treatment, like extended barrel maturation, may improve quality but will also increase the bottle's cost. So wineries often make two (or more) versions of each style, hoping to appeal to both cost-conscious drinkers and those willing to pay more for quality.

BUZZ: How can I be sure that the reserve tastes better? Is there something my mouth will tell me?

MARNIE: Even you could tell decent wine from great wine side-by-side, Buzz, just as you could feel the difference between wool and cashmere.

BUZZ: All my clothes are by the designer Polly Esther.

MARNIE: I'm not surprised. Even if you like the reserve better, you might not feel it's worth a few extra dollars. That all depends on what each dollar means to you.

BUZZ: Each dollar is my personal friend, "George." So, I hate to see him go. Especially if he's with "Abe" or "Alexander."

MARNIE: Be careful, then. Although most vintners use the term "reserve" for their finest wines and some regions regulate its use, others are free to apply the term as pure marketing strategy. For example, Kendall-Jackson makes half-a-dozen Chardonnays, but their cheapest "everyday" bottling is labeled "Vintner's Reserve."

BUZZ: Valdez in a Rollins jersey! I think I'll stick to Mad Dog.

 


Marnie Old is Philadelphia's highest-profile sommelier. She has designed wine lists for restaurants like Parc and Bar Ferdinand. Her latest book, "Wine Secrets," is a collection of wine advice shared by top wine professionals. Marnie consults for the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board and is an adviser to the beverage trade. Check out her blog at sauceblog.marnieold.com. Buzz's musings are interpreted by Daily News City Editor Gar Joseph.

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