Jenice Armstrong: Philadelphia locals adopt Muslim-inspired menswear

August 23, 2011

THERE'S NOT a woman in Philly who would rock a burka just to make a fashion statement.

But when it comes to Muslim-inspired menswear, well, that's another story. Regardless of their religious affiliations, certain Philadelphia men, mainly African-Americans, have adopted the style of wearing long, old-world-style beards, sometimes pairing them with calf-length trousers and long shirts - all looks inspired by traditional Muslim attire.

For many, this convergence of hip-hop with Islamic style is purely a fashion statement and has nothing to do with whether a guy worships in a church or mosque. Some jokingly refer to non-Muslims who adopt this mode of dress as "asalama-fakems," a play off the traditional Arabic greeting of "as-salaam alaikum," meaning "peace be upon you."

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Whatever you call it, the Islamic-style aesthetic has been around for a while, and the beard in particular - often referred to as a "Philly beard" or a "Sunni" - has come to be identified with the City of Brotherly Love. My friend Anthony Henderson, the fashion stylist who divides his time between Philly and Los Angeles, makes a point of wearing it because of hometown pride.

"I can go to a corner store in Crenshaw or in Watts and people will say, 'You're from Philly,' " Henderson said. "And if I have to go to a new barber here in Los Angeles, I say, 'I need a Philly beard.' They automatically know what it is.

"I love my Philly beard because I think it makes me look attractive and sexy. People like to touch it and pull on it."

Henderson's chin whiskers are in a circle beard that connects his mustache with his goatee, and are darkened with hair dye that gives his beard Philly-esque definition. Barbers such as Darryl Thomas of Philly Cuts at 44th and Chestnut will use a dark wax pencil to give a sharp edge to the beard, a "serious outline."

"We just put that razor on it and make it look real hot," Thomas told me.

The most famous Philly beard-wearer is rapper Freeway.

"In college, we would often call it the Freeway beard, the Philly beard or the Muslim beard, also the West Philly beard," said Ben Piven, who created a short YouTube documentary on the topic. "There's a specific shaping to it, the way it puffs out around the cheeks and the sideburns and extends below the chin, definitely low in the mustache area in keeping with the Islamic style of facial hair.

"It's definitely well-groomed, well-kept. It's a neat look," he added.

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