Philadelphia-area options for a deluxe breakfast

August 25, 2011|By Ashley Primis, Inquirer Staff Writer
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  • At a. kitchen, chef Bryan Sikora adds some salsa to a plate of Chorizo Frittata. The restaurant is one of several options for a sophisticated breakfast in the Philadelphia area.
  • At a. kitchen, chef Bryan Sikora adds some salsa to a plate of Chorizo Frittata. The restaurant is one of several options for a sophisticated breakfast in the Philadelphia area. (CHARLES FOX / Staff Photographer )
  • Several pastries are featured at the breakfast counter at a. kitchen, in the AKA Rittenhouse Square Hotel.
  • A breakfast sandwich at a.kitchen, in the AKA Rittenhouse Hotel: Fried egg and house-made English muffin. (CHARLES FOX / Staff Photographer )

I didn't want to leave. Walking out the door and onto 18th Street - where the morning rush was full on - meant starting my day. While here, inside a. kitchen, the sconces were dimmed. Trumpet-heavy jazz played softly. An oversize mug of Earl Grey had just been topped off. My breakfast sandwich had a fried egg and hand-formed sausage patties, and was hugged by a buoyant English muffin made from scratch in the open kitchen behind me.

There were no lengthy menu descriptions from my server. No loud Four Tops. It was me and my notebook. In it, I scribbled: Is taking the time to have luxurious breakfast during the week a better start to my day than yoga?

Story continues below.

The proof was in my potatoes.

When a.kitchen, the new restaurant in the AKA Rittenhouse Square, announced it was serving breakfast, I knew I would set my alarm early and elbow commuters on the 40 bus to get there. Because a sophisticated breakfast just might be the ultimate mini-indulgence.

While Philadelphia's options for such a meal are not plentiful, they are quality. There are, of course, the other hotels. At the Four Seasons, the Fountain omelet, with porchetta, arugula, oven-roasted tomatoes, and Parmesan, is one of the more popular items. (And since you can't take the Philly out of eaters, the Habbersett scrapple is a frequent order, too.)

Over at the Rittenhouse Hotel, general manager Eric Simonis estimates that about 40 percent of Lacroix's 40 to 75 weekday morning eaters are not hotel guests, but area residents. "There's a beautiful view of the square, and it's very relaxing," said Simonis.

Which is another benefit of skipping the diner in favor of the deluxe - they work hard to make your morning meal as soothing as a spa visit. At Lacroix, the customer sets the pace. Service is adept, but not fawning. Guests are offered a newspaper. Paper-thin crystal is filled with fresh grapefruit juice. White linens, as smooth and crisp as high-thread-count sheets, line the tables.

It's what keeps regulars - some of whom, according to Simonis, have breakfast there three times a week - coming back.

Locals aren't skimping on calories, either: The French toast, which is made from house-baked brioche, is a favorite. All things considered, this transcendent sunrise dining experience, with prices mostly between $8 and $15, is sort of a steal.

Across the square at Parc, breakfast business, said general manager Carol Serena, has increased every year since the restaurant opened in 2008.

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