As many of that neighborhood's residents hail from the state of Puebla, Mexico - in fact, many even come from the same town, San Mateo - there are a lot of culinary similarities in these kitchens.
And while not all these taquerias are created equal, there are a few common elements you can expect:
You'll always get chips and salsa, often a red and a green. And it's the rare taco that isn't improved by the salty, spicy shock from the sauce.
Interactive Map
The options are almost unbelievably affordable, with most in the under-$12 range, for three tacos. They aren't skimpy on fillings, either. You'll be plenty full.
The trail
We'll start at Los Gallos, which is first and foremost a corner market. Head straight to the back and you'll find a handful of tables and a waitress ready to drop salsa and chips.
The large menu here, as at many of these taquerias, seems to transcend the kitchen's space limitations. For a lighter meal, try the al pastor (slow-roasted pork that has a tang from pineapple) or chorizo. Like most of the tacos, they come simply topped with cilantro and chopped white onion, and come to life with a spoonful of salsa and a squeeze of lime.
Hungrier? Order the tacos de chuleta ahumada, soft corn tortillas filled with smoked chopped pork and cheese, under a huge pile of toothsome sauteed cactus and onion strips. The browned bone from which it was cut serves as garnish.
Taqueria El Maguey is off the beaten Italian Market path, but is worth seeking out. Fluorescent lighting and Lottery tickets don't make for a fuzzy vibe, but the tacos here were among my favorites on the tour.
