Considering Wisconsin's heritage as an industrial cheese center, its arrival as a major player in the craft cheese movement was a long time in coming. It has made up ground quickly, with hits such as Pleasant Ridge's Reserve and Marieke gouda. The latest Wisconsin star is Evalon from LaClare Farms and its young cheesemaker, Katie Hedrich. As a firm, aged wheel, it's a real rarity in American goat cheese. LaClare describes it as a gouda style, but I agree with Emiglio Mignucci of DiBruno Bros. that it also has the creamy density of a firm raclette, with a delicately nutty tang. Also, unlike gouda, it melts well for a killer grilled cheese.