City's textile industry faces huge challenges

October 30, 2011|By Jane M. Von Bergen, Inquirer Staff Writer
  • At Littlewood, Benjamin Vargas inspects fiber coming off a drying line. The company was founded in 1869. It is the oldest dye house in Philadelphia, where there once were many.

Textiles, once a signature craft of Philadelphia industry, teeters on the brink of extinction, with 178 companies left in a city that once housed many times that.

There are hopes of sustaining the sector - mainly by connecting it with a younger generation of more design-oriented artisans.

But to do so, the textile-manufacturing sector must overcome a daunting calculus: Are enough skilled workers available in the Philadelphia area to keep the existing companies alive long enough for the young entrepreneurs to grow enough business and expertise to sustain them?

As Philadelphia's factories closed, their workers moved on - and now manufacturers here say it's a challenge to find the skilled workers they need.

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"If you want to find a sewing operator, or someone who knows how to cut fabric, or someone who knows how to dye fabric, or fix a knitting machine, those are hard competencies to find," said Mark Sunderland, assistant dean of design, engineering, and commerce at Philadelphia University, founded in 1884 as the Philadelphia Textile School.

On Wednesday night, however, the optimists convened in Frankford at the first gathering in recent memory of the city's textile sector. Old-line manufacturers and the young artisans met and mingled at Global Dye Works, a former textile factory that is now a warren of artists' studios.

Steve Jurash, head of the Manufacturing Alliance of Philadelphia, and Karen Randal, director of the city Commerce Department's office of business attraction and retention, organized the event.

"All too often we hear that manufacturing is dead in Philadelphia," Jurash told the group. To him, the fact that 178 textile manufacturers remain is proof that "manufacturing is very much alive."

But, as he said Wednesday, 56 percent of local textile manufacturers surveyed said they had trouble attracting skilled workers.

"The thing that concerns me the most is that the average age [of textile employees] is 49," Jurash said. "Who is coming up behind them?"

"No one," someone in the group called out.

Decades ago, the city's textile industry employed thousands of Philadelphians. Now the average company employs 13.

Even as recently as 2001, 4,500 people worked in textile and apparel manufacturing in Philadelphia, according to the U.S. Department of Labor. By 2010, that number dropped below 2,100.

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