All-American Southern

For Thanksgiving, says chef Erin O'Shea, a Dixie dinner is "kind of the core" of our food traditions, trendy now, comforting always.

November 17, 2011|By Ashley Primis, Inquirer Staff Writer
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  • Erin O'Shea pours cream into her recipe for her grandmother's mashed potatoes. Don't overmix or potatoes will get gummy.
  • Erin O'Shea pours cream into her recipe for her grandmother's mashed potatoes. Don't overmix or potatoes will get gummy. (Michael Bryant / Staff Photographer )
  • Grandma's Mashed Potatoes and Gravy: "Some of the first cooking I ever did."
  • Erin O'Shea of Percy Street BBQ. (Michael Bryant / Staff Photographer )

Chef Erin O'Shea conjures everything Texas at her Percy Street Barbecue, but when it comes to Thanksgiving, she gravitates to the flavors she recalls from the turkey and trimmings of her childhood on the Eastern Shore of Maryland.

"There was always coleslaw and green beans with Durkee onions," O'Shea says. There was also sausage stuffing and an orange Jell-O mold with mandarin oranges. Her mother's Southern-leaning family was nice enough to oblige her New England-raised father with oyster stuffing, too. And to not give him too much of a hard time for pronouncing it pecan (pee-can), not the proper Southern pee-kahn pie.

Story continues below.

For the second year, Percy Street is offering a to-go Thanksgiving dinner package that reimagines those food memories with a deft hand: a smoked turkey with corn bread and sausage stuffing, a version of the sweet-potato-with-marshmallow casserole, and O'Shea's best-in-the-city pecan pie.

This year, the chef gets a rare break. All of the to-go orders will be picked up by Wednesday, the restaurant will stay dark, and O'Shea will head home to Maryland for the holiday. And she'll stay out of the kitchen.

"It's a treat not to cook. I get there and poop out on the couch."

If O'Shea is tired, it's no wonder. Percy Street recently opened a stand in the swanky food court at the Comcast Center. She had been spending her mornings there, setting up the line, training staff, and creating a menu of sandwiches using the fragrant and tender meats she smokes at the restaurant.

After the long mornings, she would head back to the South Street flagship to gear up for dinner service, and plan for the Thanksgiving orders that keep rolling in.

Southern cuisine is having a fashionable food moment, and has been creeping into local restaurant menus for a while. But for O'Shea, it's not about catching the latest wave.

"Southern food was always trendy for me," she says. "It's kind of the core of our American food traditions. It's comforting in that sense."

Which is why it can be seamlessly integrated into any Thanksgiving meal, no matter what your family traditions are.

"It's easy," says the chef, in her usual sweet, calming cadence. "You don't need infused oils or high-end ingredients. It's stuff you can find anywhere."

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