Rick Nichols: Sweet: Shane's candy store finally looks ready to reopen

November 17, 2011|By Rick Nichols, Inquirer Columnist
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  • Old-style candy jars typify the atmosphere the Berley brothers will try to maintain. Their attention to detail extends to the time-honored techniques they will use for making candy.
  • Old-style candy jars typify the atmosphere the Berley brothers will try to maintain. Their attention to detail extends to the time-honored techniques they will use for making candy. (AKIRA SUWA / Staff Photographer )
  • Eric Berley (left) and Ryan Berley at the new Shane Candies. (AKIRA SUWA / Staff Photographer )
  • A box of nostalgia. (AKIRA SUWA / Staff Photographer )
  • Eric Berley at a mixer in Shane's kitchen. (AKIRA SUWA / Staff Photographer )
  • Katherine Winn making pie crust next to candy molds at Shane. (AKIRA SUWA / Staff Photographer )
  • Davina Soondrum dipping cashew terrapins into milk chocolate. (AKIRA SUWA / Staff Photographer )

An entire Christmas season has gone by. And a Valentine's Day. And, no less dismaying, an Easter since the Berley brothers began their clean-out and stubborn, nearing-the-finish-line reclamation of Shane Candies, the faded Old City stalwart.

Actually, stalwart doesn't quite capture the fullness of its history - a confection business at its address (110 Market St.) since the days of the Civil War, its life under the Shane sign dating to 1911, 15 years before the cables of the Ben Franklin Bridge were slung a few blocks north.

That makes it at least a strong claimant for a singularly sweet distinction: oldest, still-operating, making-most-of-its-own-candy shop in America.

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Its temporary darkness (the Shane family sold it to the Berleys - Eric and Ryan - in early 2010) has not gone down well with regulars whose grandparents patronized the storybook of a shop, and whose parents did, after them.

Once upon a time, indeed, 20,000 people a day were said to stream past Shane's curved-glass entry to the foot of Market Street, commuting by ferry to Camden (or from it), a river of foot traffic that dried up, along with several competing candy shops, after the completion of the big, blue bridge in 1926.

The faithful would return, as resolutely as the Delaware's shad, generation after generation to the mahogany-trimmed place, bent on customized boxes of holiday buttercreams and chocolate-coated, handmade marshmallows (imported from the candy loft upstairs), for enrobed orange jellies and caramels and candy canes and sweet fondant Easter eggs - the inventory of the season. They were lost without it.

Which is why in recent weeks a palpable impatience has been building. Later this month, perhaps by Black Friday, or surely by early December, the masking paper will come off the front door, and the displays behind those curved glass windows will be made ready: Shane, dark for nearly two years, will ride again.

It will not be quite the same Shane of recent memory. The bones have been scrupulously preserved - and the Victorian aspect, the carved mahogany, the intimate center aisle, the curved-glass entry, funneling you in.

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