At Drexel, mastering Korean cuisine

Student chefs serve guests at a dinner climaxing their 10-week course, funded by the Korean government.

November 23, 2011|By Ashley Primis, Inquirer Staff Writer
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  • Teacher Jeehyun Lee (center), in traditional dress, talks with dinner guests Ming Chu (left) and Stephanie Boysen. The course, offered at Drexel for the second year, coincides with growing local and national interest in Korean food.
  • Teacher Jeehyun Lee (center), in traditional dress, talks with dinner guests Ming Chu (left) and Stephanie Boysen. The course, offered at Drexel for the second year, coincides with growing local and national interest in Korean food. (Sharon Gekoski-Kimmel…)
  • Plating vegetable bibimbap are (from left) instructor Adrienne Hall and students Edward Green and Timothy Longstreth. (SHARON GEKOSKI-KIMMEL…)
  • Clam Sundubu Jjigae, a hot and spicy stew, is ready to be served. Student chefs prepared upscale Korean food.

For Drexel University culinary students, this was an exam of sorts: Dressed in chef whites, they were in the kitchen last week turning out banchan and kimchi courses, showcasing their expertise, from ingredient pronunciations to cooking techniques.

For the 35 or so dinner guests, the event was an opportunity to sample refined Korean flavors. Alumni, school administrators, and a Korean food critic were all in attendance, metal chopsticks poised to dig in.

Jeehyun "Jee" Lee was flitting around the dining room of Drexel's Academic Bistro, comfortably playing hostess at the Korean dinner prepared and served by her students, the culmination of the 10-week Korean cuisine course she teaches there.

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"Upscale Korean food is something the students can really experience with this event," says Lee, who was outfitted in a black and yellow hanbok, a voluminous traditional Korean dress, that her mother sent to her for the occasion.

This is the second year Drexel has offered the course from Lee and cooking school instructor Adrienne Hall, funded by the Korean government to promote its native cuisine.

And the timing couldn't be better, as, government efforts or not, the cuisine of this Asian country has been inching into the culinary spotlight over the last few years.

Korean-born celebrity chef David Chang has popularized ethnic mash-ups such as Honeycrisp apple kimchi through his group of Momofuku restaurants in Manhattan. He also serves a food-geek-famous fried chicken dinner, complete with Korean-style chicken, that guests clamor for.

On the West Coast, the L.A.-based food truck Kogi Korean BBQ, helmed by chef Roy Choi, started a national frenzy with kimchi quesadillas and Korean tacos (you'll find similar versions all over Philly now at places such as Giwa and Ladder 15).

Both chefs have been lauded in national media. And Korean-based fast-food chains such as BonChon Chicken have been steadily popping up in New York and out West.

"Korean food is something that never really blossomed in the U.S.," says Lee, who came from her native country to the States to get her Ph.D. in food science. But, she said, that is starting to change: "People are always looking for new flavors and it's not just bulgogi and kimchi."

The Korea Agro-Fisheries Trade Corp., a Korean government-owned public corporation with offices in New York City, is charged with spreading Korean flavors Stateside.

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