New Year's Roarin' Eve

At a Twenties party, the New Year baby's a jazz baby: Fringe flutters, spirits flow, and you dine like a bootlegger on mountains of seafood.

December 29, 2011|By Ashley Primis, Inquirer Staff Writer
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  • A menu from the 21 Club, 1933. French- leaning dishes were popular at the time.
  • A menu from the 21 Club, 1933. French- leaning dishes were popular at the time.
  • Party like it's 1920: HBO's "Boardwalk Em- pire" sets the scene for a Prohibition-theme bacchanal of feathers, martinis, and Waldorf salad. The bar's the centerpiece for an evening of dressed-up, naughty fun. By 1933 (New York's 21 Club, inset), it was all over. (MACALL B. POLAY / HBO. Inset…)

Inside the leaded glass windows, behind the polished walnut bar, above the original fireplace in Atlantic City's Knife & Fork is a plaque listing the establishment's founding members. When it opened in 1912, this was a private men's club, and one name on the plaque, The Commodore, would make any Boardwalk Empire fan squeal with delight.

The Commodore was Louis Kuehnle, the early-20th-century powerhouse who pulled the strings of Atlantic City's shady political machine for years.

In fact, he would be great inspiration for your New Year's Eve getup. As the HBO series, which just wrapped its second season, gains popularity, it has replaced Mad Men's early-1960s appeal, making the 1920s the latest decade worth emulating. Come Dec. 31, Roaring Twenties parties will abound.

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"There is an enduring appeal to the images of the Twenties, added to by Boardwalk Empire, of this boozy, frolicking sexual awakening that has value right now," says Bryant Simon, a professor of history at Temple University.

Who isn't ready to mix a strong drink, don some fringe, turn up the jazz, and flirt? "There is something about the formality, illicitness, and exclusiveness that are popular," says Simon.

In other words: It represents glamour and wanton fun, two things easily channeled into any New Year's soiree.

With local bartenders perfecting classic cocktails, chefs creating Twenties era-inspired menus, and actual nearby haunts, like Knife & Fork, New York's 21 Club, and Delaware's Green Room at Hotel du Pont, inspiration is everywhere.

Set the table

Borgata executive chef Ron Ross hit the Atlantic City archives, poring over menus from hotels of the era, to create his "Nosh Like Nucky" menu, which runs at the hotel's Metropolitan restaurant on Sundays when the show is on. (Enoch "Nucky" Johnson is the real-life-inspired character that Steve Buscemi plays on the HBO show.)

"Transportation was not big, so a lot of the food came from nearby farms," Ross says. "The food then was pretty basic. In some cases, it makes you realize how overdone food is these days."

It may have been basic by our standards, but party menus were elegant and upscale. Ross found Frenched lamb chops to be a staple on most menus. The Waldorf salad, created at the famed Manhattan hotel, was an often-requested dish. Other French-leaning dishes such as cream of celery soup and chicken à la reine were popular.

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