Fishtown's Loco Pez revs up the margarita

Posted: January 15, 2012

Fishtown, on the whole, is an edgy, craft-beer kind of place. And Loco Pez has its share of brews to hit the required local (PBC Shackamaximum imperial stout), Mexican (Dos Equis amber on draft), and American craft (Dale's Pale Ale) touchstones.

But the quality tequilas and margaritas here are clearly this bar's strongest suit. An already fine shot of Casa Noble, Herradura, or Milagro is even finer accompanied by a complimentary side of manager Sergio Ruiz's sangrita, a juicy tomato shot sparked with a distinctive fruity note of pineapple, a sweet dark tint of pomegranate molasses, and a pointedly hot finish of chile piquin.

But I was most surprised by the finesse, balance, and creativity of the car-themed margaritas, whose fresh lime-and-tequila cores are riffed on with everything from grapefruit soda (the Regal) to chipotle and hibiscus (the Monte Carlo), or my favorite, the Coupe de Ville, which blushes with a sweet-tart blood-orange kick that manages (thanks to that cinna-chile-spiced rim) not to be too frou-frou to be served at Susquehanna and Norris.

- Craig LaBan

Margaritas, $6-$8; tequilas, $7-$13 (mostly); Loco Pez, 2401 E. Norris St., 267-886-8061.

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