Art: Fiber sculpture with the verve of dance

Nick Cave combines visual expression and infectious energy in his "soundsuits."

January 15, 2012|By Edward J. Sozanski, Contributing Art Critic
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  • "Architectural Forest" opened Nick Cave's exhibition at Fabric Workshop and Museum with dancers and musicians in an environment of shimmering bands of painted bamboo.
  • "Architectural Forest" opened Nick Cave's exhibition at Fabric Workshop and Museum with dancers and musicians in an environment of shimmering bands of painted bamboo.
  • A soundsuit, one of Nick Cave's creations that reflect a variety of disciplines including sculpture, textile, and dance.
  • Not all soundsuits are the same; this one is made of stuffed animals. On most, only feet and legs show.
  • "Milk Crown," made of cast porcelain, one of Jennifer Bolande's works at the Institute of Contemporary Art.

Nick Cave's art is vivacious, exciting, and transformative. Its unique sensibility emerges from the convergence of a number of aesthetic languages - African art, painting, fashion design, textile patterning and textures, dance, and, most identifiably, sculpture.

The 15 "soundsuits" that he's showing at the Fabric Workshop and Museum evoke all of these genres, and yet they aren't simple extensions of any of them. Cave doesn't disguise his sources, but he blends them so skillfully that the results are completely sui generis.

Cave heads the fashion department at the school of the Art Institute of Chicago. That might explain the genesis of the dazzling soundsuits, except that he once explained in an interview that "I don't really look at fashion. . . . I'm interested in couture principles."

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He's also African American, which could account for the bold forms and rich, variegated surfaces of his sculptures, qualities common in African and African American folk art. In fact, one might initially mistake some of them, especially those profusely covered with buttons, for the latter.

Yet the imaginative variety of these fiber sculptures, and especially their meticulous craftsmanship, sets them apart from the creations of self-taught naifs. (Cave, born in 1959, graduated from two prestigious art academies, Kansas City Art Institute and Cranbrook Academy of Art.)

When you factor in the potential for performance, realized in two videos that are part of the show, you arrive at an art form that combines powerful visual expression with the emotion and infectious energy of dance theater.

The soundsuits are displayed on mannequins, but with all but four only the legs show, reminiscent of the dancing cigarette packages in old television commercials. They're imposing too, ranging in height from about seven to more than nine feet.

One could imagine the suits as totemic ceremonial costumes, except that there doesn't seem to be any way to see out of them. The ceremony in this case is lighthearted and life-affirming; one suit is made of stuffed toys, another of small throw rugs.

Four suits are more conventionally figurative. Covered with long platinum-blond hair, they resemble friendly yetis. The performers in the video Drive By, projected in the gallery where the suits are displayed, also wear hairy, multicolored costumes that flop and flow like waves as they roll and tumble across the floor.

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