A welcome winter market, an outlet for draft wines

Freshly ground wheat flour , among Rineer Family Farms products at Rittenhouse Farmer's Market.
Freshly ground wheat flour , among Rineer Family Farms products at Rittenhouse Farmer's Market. (CRAIG LaBAN / Staff)
Posted: January 19, 2012

Here is an excerpt from Craig LaBan's online chat.

Craig LaBan: I'm thrilled to see the Rittenhouse Farmer's Market still ticking along each Saturday into winter, with hot cider and the Renaissance Sausage cart to keep us warm, as well as a new-ish Jersey seafood stand with everything from fluke to scallops from Barnegat - all of it fresh and local, not frozen. They'd sold out by 1 p.m. when we arrived. We were in plenty of time, though, to plunder the Rineer Family Farms - one of the best all-purpose stands around: grass-fed rump roast; eggs with yolks as bright as the sun. But most interesting, Rineer has also recently been selling freshly ground white cornmeal (great for crusting fish) and wheat grown on the farm in Pequea, Lancaster County, for $3.75 a quart. Owner Daryl Rineer typically grinds the whole-grain flour each Friday before the weekend markets (they go to Chestnut Hill's market every other Saturday, too), so you need to keep it in the fridge to retain that freshness. Also: I'm intrigued by the new Paris wine bar set up by London Grill next door to the restaurant because this will be the region's first showcase for kegged wines on draft (a national trend that is locally long overdue). And all the wines will be from local winemakers such as Allegro, Pinnacle Ridge, Galen Glen, and Manatawny Creek. There's a lot of plonk being passed off in local wineries, but there's also a surprising amount of good things happening. This is the first restaurant venue I know that will be putting its wines in front of a local audience at an affordable price.

Reader: Don't forget the Farmer's Market at Fitler Square in the winter. Small, but still good. Bought a rabbit from Sunnyside Farms.

C.L.: Yes, the Fitler Square market is a sweet one. Great lamb purveyor there, among other things.

Reader: Any recommendations for good eats out in the western Chester County/eastern Lancaster County area?

C.L.: I'd like to give Avalon Pasta Bistro in Downingtown a try soon. . . . I like what they do in West Chester and am curious what John Brandt-Lee is cooking in the new place. There's also Birchrunville Store Cafe (if you can get a reservation), the Marshalton Inn (especially if you like cheese). In Exton, adventurous eaters might give the vegetarian South Indian buffet at Devi a try. Beats the heck out of Cheeseburger in Paradise.

Reader: Do you have a suggestion for brunch on a Saturday before the Flyers? South Philly Tap Room? Kraftwork?

C.L.: Well, if you don't want to be late, you better stick with the SPTR, since Mifflin Street is a lot closer than Girard Avenue. South Philly is full of good brunch options. There's Green Eggs on Dickinson, which is a contender for the city's best brunch. There's also Hawthorne's at 11th and Fitzwater, with something like 1,000 craft beers in the fridge (plus rare growlers on draft) . . . all sound like a great warm-up to watch the Fly Guys on ice.

Reader: The best French toast in the city might be at Crossroads in Roxborough. I like it better than Cafe Estelle's. Definitely more of a coffee place than breakfast place, but they do omelets and other items. Solid spot.

C.L.: That is some pretty high praise, as I think of Cafe Estelle as the city's best French toast, they make the bread (and other things) that goes on the plate. Will give Crossroads a try.

Reader: And get to Stateside before it becomes impossible to get in. Easily my favorite new place.

Reader: My current favorite spot is Stateside on East Passyunk Ave., clearly the newest restaurant row in the city and a neighborhood that becomes more appealing. George Sabatino (last stint was chef de cuisine at Barbuzzo) is creating some fantastic dishes with real creativity, texture, and flavor. All-American approach here. The rabbit rillettes is something I must order at every visit. The steak tartare, pickled veg, braised beef cheeks, clams w/homemade andouille, and house-made duck sausage all impress. Craig - is this on your radar for a review? Looking forward to seeing your thoughts. Thanks.

C.L.: I'm looking forward to Stateside, too. Still a little new (for my visit), but I've heard nothing but raves. . . .

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