Reader: What do the Garces joints lack to keep away a 4th bell?
C.L: Quite simply, they are lacking a personal presence from Garces himself. Garces' ambitions and energies seem to be directed toward empire expansion at the moment, and while I think those restaurants are still fantastic for high-volume venues, they lack the kind of spark of evolution and personal connection. He tells me a little boutique-style 20-seater is in the works where he plans to take it to the next level - perhaps for 2013.
Reader: In your review of Le Bec-Fin, you pointed out things many have been speaking about for years regarding service, food, and the overall experience. Many would agree that LBF is beyond repair, but will Georges Perrier ever bow out gracefully?
C.L: Le Bec is no doubt struggling to evolve to that next phase in the tall shadow of its former glory. I was most shocked simply at how far - and how quickly - it had crumbled since my last review . . . .
Reader: Do you think your review of Le Bec-Fin will prompt positive changes? Or will Le Bec-Fin be closed by this time next year?
C.L.: It's just impossible to tell what's going to happen. A lack of common-sense vision has been a great part of its downfall. Nick Elmi is a talented chef. But trying to paddle that vintage boat in two or three directions at once with half the crew seems like an impossible challenge.
How can restaurants that only are focusing on food make it into 4-bell category? Food, wine, and service all should be part of the review don't you think?
