Only elephants need apply

When Thailand banned logging, it was good for the environment - bad for pachyderms. The unemployed animals became a nonprofit's cause, and a tourist draw.

February 12, 2012|By Stu Bykofsky, For The Inquirer
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  • The elephants' quarters in the camp on the grounds of the Anantara Golden Triangle Resort & Spa in Chiang Rai, Thailand.
  • The elephants' quarters in the camp on the grounds of the Anantara Golden Triangle Resort & Spa in Chiang Rai, Thailand. (STU BYKOFSKY / For The Inquirer )
  • Each morning, an elephant is brought out to the patio so tourists can get pictures of themselves petting or feeding fruit to the pachyderm. Some animal lovers consider such interaction exploitive, but the elephants seem content. (STU BYKOFSKY / For The Inquirer )
  • A baby elephant snuggles up to an adult at the Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation camp in Chiang Rai, Thailand. (STU BYKOFSKY / For The Inquirer )
  • Australian tourist Zoe Hibbert joins Pepsi the elephant for a swim. (STU BYKOFSKY / For The Inquirer )
  • American Nigel Rigby feeds a treat to the elephant hes riding. (STU BYKOFSKY / For The Inquirer )

CHIANG RAI, Thailand - No one asked the elephants, or their mahouts.

In 1989, to halt the rape of its thick forests, Thailand banned the centuries-old industry of logging. The result: Logging was stopped (legal logging, anyway) - and thousands of elephants suddenly found themselves jobless. This was less of a problem for the elephants than for their gobsmacked mahouts (owners), who faced the challenge of providing their elephants with about 500 pounds of food a day with no source of income.

The mahouts chose a practical, but sad, path. Many took their elephants to the crowded capital of Bangkok, a city with more than 8 million people, jammed streets, and high pollution.

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Tourists paid to have their pictures taken with the elephants, watch them beg, or do tricks they were taught by training methods that might have been painful, even brutal. There's no way of knowing.

Street life was not good for Bangkok, mahouts, or elephants. Jobless elephants showed up in smaller Thai cities, too.

The nonprofit Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation was launched in 2003 "to help resolve the problem of elephants begging on the streets," says John Roberts, 38, the director of elephants at the five-star Anantara Golden Triangle Resort and Spa, which hosts an elephant camp and 30 resident pachyderms - 25 females and five males (four juveniles and one adult).

At the start, Roberts admits, mistakes were made. To get elephants off the streets, the foundation bought them from mahouts who took the cash, bought more elephants, and returned to the streets.

"We realized that while we were feeling good about ourselves, it wasn't helping the long-term problem," Roberts says.

After the purchase scheme flopped, a more creative strategy was developed - the foundation decided to "rent." Each mahout is paid 15,000 baht (about $500) a month - very good money for a poor Thai - to take his elephant into a camp in the clean forest. The elephant and the mahout live free at the camp, along with the mahout's family, on the grounds of the resort in the rugged area known as the Golden Triangle, where Thailand, Myanmar (formerly Burma), and Laos touch.

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