Philly designer betting N.Y. show gives her fashion traction

February 14, 2012|By Elizabeth Wellington, Inquirer Staff Writer
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  • Carmelita Greco at her Society Hill studio. Greco - known in Philadelphia's avant-garde fashion circles as Carmelita Couture - based her fall 2012 presentation on the New Testament's Book of Revelation. But despite Greco's scriptural inspirations, these clothes are far from conservative or chaste.
  • Carmelita Greco at her Society Hill studio. Greco - known in Philadelphia's avant-garde fashion circles as Carmelita Couture - based her fall 2012 presentation on the New Testament's Book of Revelation. But despite Greco's scriptural inspirations, these clothes are far from conservative or chaste. (TOM GRALISH / Staff Photographer )
  • Carmelita Greco, with a gold-sequined jumper, will host her show Tuesday night at New York Fashion Week. "This is a big deal for me," she said. (TOM GRALISH / Staff Photographer )
  • Greco's line, inspired by the Book of Revelation, includes a silk, lion-print top "In Revelations," she says, "the lion is described as the king of the beasts." (TOM GRALISH / Staff Photographer )
  • A lightning print blouse comes with a matching skirt. Pieces from Greco's past collections have been spotted on Vampire Diaries actress Katerina Graham. And, thanks to celebrity stylist June Ambrose, a few of her ensembles have been on The X Factor. (TOM GRALISH / Staff Photographer) (TOM GRALISH / Staff Photographer )
  • A feather stretch mini-skirt. (TOM GRALISH / Staff Photographer )
  • Detail of a feather & lace "Judy Dress." (TOM GRALISH / Staff Photographer )
  • Late last year, Greco began manufacturing her clothes in New York's Garment District."More designers are coming back" to the United States, she says. There, she has been able to negotiate better prices, order smaller quantities, and keep a closer eye on the work, since she can visit more often. (TOM GRALISH / Staff Photographer )

Carmelita Greco is betting that the glitzy, apocalyptic women's-wear collection she plans to debut Tuesday night during New York Fashion Week will signal a new beginning to her struggling design career.

Greco - known in Philadelphia's avant-garde fashion circles as Carmelita Couture - based her fall 2012 presentation on the New Testament's Book of Revelation. But despite Greco's scriptural inspirations, these clothes are far from conservative or chaste.

Nope, this made-in-America women's-wear line is sizzling: Think biblical text meets disco ball. The 24 pieces are typical Carmelita Couture, featuring Greco's signature sequined hot pants - this season, the glitter is golden - and stretch-lace sheaths embellished with feathers. Leopard-print bodysuits mold to the figure.

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"The gold is a symbol that God's heaven is filled with streets paved in gold," Greco, 36, explained from her Locust Street design studio. "The feathers symbolize God coming to us on eagle's wings."

But not all of the pieces strictly follow a woman's curves. On a recent morning, Greco, dressed in an all-black catsuit, worked her way through a rack of flowing separates, a major part of the collection. With turquoise fingernails, Greco pulled out a floor-length, deep-V caftan - a lion's face emblazoned on the back.

The lion is among the five bold prints commissioned for the collection.

"In Revelations, the lion is described as the king of the beasts," Greco said.

Is she superreligious?

"Not at all," said Greco, who doesn't belong to a religious denomination. "But I do practice my faith. I think people are thinking about the end of the world."

Greco's runway will be at an airy, swanky space in New York's Meatpacking District; it's part of an emerging five-show collective called the Designer's Loft. Each year, more and more emerging designers are debuting during Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week, the bulk of whose shows are at Milk Studios, also in the district.

A former financial consultant for Charles Schwab, Greco made a career change five years ago while living in Miami. The self-taught designer used to make clothing for her friends and do their makeup. After seven years in the financial industry, she realized she wanted to follow her passion. She held her first show at the Miami Art Museum and, during the Art Basel festival, began making contacts in the industry.

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