Mirror, Mirror: Simple shapes, dark and serious

February 15, 2012|By Elizabeth Wellington, Inquirer Fashion Writer
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  • To exotic floral prints, Tracy Reese adds a riding helmet and oversize sunglasses.
  • To exotic floral prints, Tracy Reese adds a riding helmet and oversize sunglasses. (BEBETO MATTHEWS / Associated…)
  • Local designer Nicole Miller toned down the hue of her florals, with no loss to aesthetic. (JASON DeCROW / Associated…)

NEW YORK - Live worldwide streaming, the ability to order collections right off the runway, and an American Express Skybox Lounge are making New York Fashion Week feel more like a sporting event at the Wells Fargo Center than the industry-only style fete it once was.

And it seems that this corporate influence is translating to the Lincoln Center runway in a dark and serious way.

"It's a very minimalistic, very austere vibe," said Jen Sord, news fashion director at Lucky magazine. "It's a very quiet season. There are some hints of 1960s cocktail embellishments combined with some '90s suiting, but the '70s moment is over."

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Fall 2012 continues to focus on a slim-silhouette, all-American sportswear look. Some volume exists in the bevy of blazers with peplum detailing and in the soft, pleated, ankle-length skirts. But for the most part, trousers - albeit in bold colors - will remain skinny. Most dresses are sheath-shaped. The graphic-print blouses you will be buying this spring and summer will transition easily to winter with the help of a turtleneck or long-sleeved sheer mock T.

Shapes are so simple, they border on boring.

But like apps that transform our individual iPhones into something unique - technology, thanks to Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram, also is detracting from Fashion Week's celebrity status - there is some excitement in the handcrafted details and color combinations of otherwise predictable pieces.

Palettes range from edgy black splattered with reds to heavily saturated blocks of color.

Designers aren't hesitating to seamlessly layer accessories into their ensembles. Floppy fedoras, riding hats, and elbow-length gloves - leather and knit - are fresh.

And I suspect touches borrowed from evening wear will be the mark of well-dressed businesswomen as designers heavily interspersed sparkles, sheer fabric, and fur into daytime looks.

"We continue to see a lot of fusion in fashion," explained Nicole Fischelis, fashion director of Macy's. "There is a lot of combining different textures in clothing, and there is a strong emphasis on menswear."

Here are the major trends that will go from runway to retail this fall.

Bold prints. Vibrant florals and three-dimensional graphics will give prints a perennial personality this year.

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