Craig: I'm a big fan of Le Virtu. And it was a real pleasure to see that place grow from two to three bells last year. That next leap, though, is the hardest to predict. I'll know it when I taste it. But not every restaurant was cut out to be a four-bell experience. Much like Osteria - it is just perfect as a three-beller, and I suspect Le Virtu is the same way. That said, no one knows the future. ...
Reader: I was curious about your selections on gastropubs. I've always felt that while amazing in some regards, three bells for Standard Tap? How is it that their level of service justifies that high of a review?
Craig: I know that may seem a bit high for a pub, but I gave that rating a number of years ago because I felt Standard Tap really set the standard in its genre, and it still does. I find the folks who work here are incredibly informed on the beers and food, which remains, to my mind, some of the best bar food anywhere. We went back recently, and I just loved our meal, from the fried smelts to the pork sandwich (so tender and flavorful) to a fantastic cazuela filled with monkfish and clams. Carolynn Angle's still kickin' it in the kitchen, so I saw no reason to change this rating. ST still sets the "bar."
Reader: Two of the most notable omissions in your gastropub list: Pub & Kitchen and Varga Bar. Jonny Mac and Evan Turney are two of the best chefs in this town, let alone at gastropubs. Why the lack of love?
Craig: The gastropub genre was probably the most crowded field. So many great contenders there, including Pub & Kitchen. I've not been quite as impressed with the food at Varga Bar - food always sounds better than it tastes.
