Good Taste: Foul-ish pleasure

Posted: March 29, 2012

There's a good reason Northern Libertarians adore Cafe La Maude.

With its chic tiled look, swing-open windows, cozy banquette, and big fresh salads, it has the feel of a Parisian pocket nook.

"Get the De Maison salad," a friend whispers on his way past me. And I'm tempted.

But I love this smart little breakfast-bruncher best for its Middle Eastern flair - a natural for Lebanese owner Nathalie Richan. I'm talking about kibbe and tabbouleh, tawook-style marinated chicken and buttery baklava.

The foul moudamas platter, though, is the combo I can't resist. It is Richan's mash-up of several usually separate dishes - a layer of silky house hummus topped, unconventionally, with a lemony mash of stewed brown fava beans, then a chunky tomato-parsley salad, then crowned, finally, by a scrambled egg for warmth and protein. With pita wedges to pinch up every last morsel, it's yet another good reason to put Cafe La Maude on the luncher's map.

Foul Moudamas platter, $9.50, Cafe La Maude, 816 N. Fourth St., 267-318-7869.

- Craig LaBan

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