Drink: Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas Red and White

Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas 2011 White (45524),
Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas 2011 White (45524),
Posted: June 24, 2012

The Rhône-inspired wines of Paso Robles are some of the most intriguing bottles coming these days from California, and those from Tablas Creek, co-owned by Château Beaucastel of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, are among the very best, though relatively pricey.

The Patelin series of country-style red and white blends with screw-tops was launched in 2011 as a response to the lagging economy to give Tablas Creek a presence in the under-$20-a-bottle range.

And the result has been value wines of great character and complexity. The bold red blend of syrah, grenache, mourvèdre and counoise bursts with ripe black-plum fruit, depth, and tartness wrapped in some well-placed rustic edges. It is the white, though, that I find the more compelling of the pair, an exotic fruit bowl of grenache blanc, viognier, roussanne and marsanne that blends honeyed melon sweetness on the nose with creamy body and a dry, minerally, spicy finish.

 — Craig LaBan

Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas Red 2011 (code 45523) and 2011 White (45524), both $17.99 in Pennsylvania; both $16.99 (with store discount) at Circle Liquor Store, Somers Point, at the Jersey Shore.

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