Good Taste

SHARON GEKOSKI-KIMMEL / Staff Photographer
SHARON GEKOSKI-KIMMEL / Staff Photographer
Posted: August 02, 2012

Played to the bone

Sean Magee, recently promoted to executive chef at Time, says bone marrow has always sold well at the restaurant, performance space, and whiskey bar, but his clever Chinese-takeout spin on the brasserie standard has enthusiasts as jazzed up as the musicians who jam here every night. Magee originally wanted to do a marrow stir-fry dish, but later decided to play it to the bone, taking sliced-lengthwise veal "canoe cuts" and drizzling them with a from-scratch kung pao sauce spiced with dried Chinese chiles and black and Szechuan peppercorns. After roasting in a 450-degree oven, each bone is topped with chopped peanuts, candied ginger and scallions, then plated with toast, sea salt, and sweet-and-sour turnips. The preparation is attracting both seasoned marrow enthusiasts and curious first-timers. "It's a primal-looking thing," Magee says of the starter. "And that's why I like it." - Drew Lazor

Kung pao bone marrow, $11, Time, 1315 Sansom St., 215-985-4800.

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