Finding Egypt safe, engaging

Richard Johnson, the writer's husband, and Moustafa Ahmed playing dominoes in a Bedouin bar.
Richard Johnson, the writer's husband, and Moustafa Ahmed playing dominoes in a Bedouin bar. (HEIDI HAYES)
Posted: August 05, 2012

"Egypt! Isn't that dangerous? Are you sure you want to go there?"

What were we going to encounter in Egypt? The troubles that followed the Arab Spring of 2011 had convinced most Americans that Egypt was unsafe and dangerous. Were we concerned? Perhaps a bit, so we checked with the most reliable sources we could find and decided to go. Any concerns we had disappeared when we stepped off the plane in Cairo and saw the warm smile of Yasser, our Deluxe Travel tour coordinator.

For 12 days, we explored the sights of Egypt, astonished to be standing next to the Pyramids, amazed at the structures, statues, and even the paint that had survived centuries beyond our comprehension. We camped in the White Desert, waking at 4 a.m. to revel in the surreal light. We cruised the Nile, delighting in the sensations of ancient and modern life. We drank tea and played dominoes in a Bedouin bar. We hiked the rugged paths of Mount Sinai to witness a glorious sunrise. We endured Cairo's famous traffic and dust to experience the vibrant life of that incredible city.

What surprised me the most about Egypt were the people. Everywhere we went, Egyptians were eager to talk about their revolution, to discuss their joys and concerns. Egyptians such as Hassan, so proud to immerse us in the almost-vanished Nubian culture; and Ishmael, stunned by my attempts to say hello in Arabic, the smile on his face worth my feeble efforts. Then there was the charming Moustafa, who seemed to be a dear friend from the moment we met. Moustafa spoke candidly about Egyptian social issues and longingly of his wife and baby daughter, currently living in Yemen.

All of these interactions were a prelude to our final evening in Giza, when we were invited to the home of Mohammed and Mona for a traditional Egyptian dinner. We were welcomed with warmth and grace, and the cosmopolitan Mona reminded me of any typical working mother back in the States, juggling a career, three delightfully boisterous sons, last-minute dinner guests, and engaging conversation. Throughout the evening, the generous Mohammed had impeccable timing as he would interject the perfect witty comment that would make all of us laugh like old friends. We returned to our hotel full of food and hope for the future. With people like Mohammed and Mona in the world, there is definitely reason for hope.

What did I take away from our Egyptian adventures? Well, I'll certainly never forget the thrill of seeing the Pyramids, the Nile, Mount Sinai, and so many other Egyptian sights. But the people. Ah, the people.


Heidi Hayes writes from Bryn Mawr.

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