Style lines in the riesling world have been drawn, traditionally, as clear as international borders. In Germany, even the crispest versions typically teased with residual sweetness. For bone-dry bottles, one turned to France's Alsace. But the distinctions are no longer so neat and tidy - especially as dry riesling ("trocken") continues to be a rising trend in Germany, too.
This dry riesling from Selbach in Mosel (a second label from the premium Selbach-Oster group) is a great example of the modern German approach, from the translated modern "Fish" label to the lack of sweetness. It may not be as age-worthy or complex as some of its Alsatian counterparts, but it's dynamic nonetheless, with a hint of honeysuckle on the nose just to remind you of its DNA, but with a taut zing of green-apple crispness and balance on the tongue that makes for refreshing and affordable summer sipping. Snap up what's left before a $2 price increase on the 2011 vintage.
