Drink: Dry Riesling from Germany

Posted: August 06, 2012

Style lines in the riesling world have been drawn, traditionally, as clear as international borders. In Germany, even the crispest versions typically teased with residual sweetness. For bone-dry bottles, one turned to France's Alsace. But the distinctions are no longer so neat and tidy - especially as dry riesling ("trocken") continues to be a rising trend in Germany, too.

This dry riesling from Selbach in Mosel (a second label from the premium Selbach-Oster group) is a great example of the modern German approach, from the translated modern "Fish" label to the lack of sweetness. It may not be as age-worthy or complex as some of its Alsatian counterparts, but it's dynamic nonetheless, with a hint of honeysuckle on the nose just to remind you of its DNA, but with a taut zing of green-apple crispness and balance on the tongue that makes for refreshing and affordable summer sipping. Snap up what's left before a $2 price increase on the 2011 vintage.

- Craig LaBan

Selbach Dry Mosel Riesling 2010, $14.99 (39008), in Pennsylvania (most currently in Montgomery County) and online at www.finewineandgoodspirits.com

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