Good Taste: Eat, drink, and harmony

A crab-avocado stack with a glass of Evolucio, a Hungarian white, at Jet Wine Bar. ( Yong Kim / Staff Photographer )
A crab-avocado stack with a glass of Evolucio, a Hungarian white, at Jet Wine Bar. ( Yong Kim / Staff Photographer )
Posted: September 13, 2012

A visit to Jet Wine Bar is generally a drink-first, eat-second kind of proposition, where the menu of small bites and nibbles (a particularly nice selection of cheese) was conceived in support of the quirky list of obscure international wines.

When a pairing is perfect, though, a magical thing happens: both the food and wine are better for the match.

That is exactly what happened when this elegant ponzu-splashed pedestal of crab and guacamole - a familiar combo - paired-up with this crisp but floral Hungarian furmint called Evolúció.

A good, affordable example of the increasingly popular dry style now being vinted from the grape traditionally used in sweet Tokaji, the wine's aromatic notes heightened the layers of creaminess in the avocado, and boosted the exotic citrus soy. A green-apple crispness on the palate set off the briny sweetness of good Maryland crab.

And before I knew it, Jet had me eating and drinking until both plate and glass were empty.

- Craig LaBan

Crab stack, $11, 2011 Evolúció furmint, $7.50, Jet Wine Bar, 1525 South St., 215-735-1116; jetwinebar.com

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