This cheese stands alone

DAVID M WARREN / Staff Photographer
DAVID M WARREN / Staff Photographer
Posted: November 01, 2012

In this golden age of cheese it's now easily assumed that curds must be artisanally crafted to be worth attention. But after devouring the beefy wedge of oozy Pont-l'Evêque, I agree with Downtown Cheese owner Jack Morgan that there are stellar exceptions: "The industrialization of a cheese doesn't mean necessarily it's going to be poor quality."

Granted, Pont-l'Evêque benefits from the tradition of its 13th-century roots, even though it's relatively mass-produced in Normandy by companies such as Graindorge.

The milk for this imported version is slow-pasteurized, but the brine-washed rind lends this soft cow's-milk standby a living pungency that evolves as it ripens, from a mild swagger when the rind is powdery orange to an earthy mushroom depth as it darkens to russet brown.

As good Camembert becomes increasingly hard to find, it is to Pont-l'Evêque I turn for reliable, Normand character. This ambassador for the washed-rind world is sure to make its presence known merely when you open the fridge door.

- Craig LaBan

Pont-l'Evêque, $19.99 a pound, Downtown Cheese, Reading Terminal Market, 215-351-7412.

comments powered by Disqus
|
|
|
|
|