GoodTaste: Pot pie power

DAVID M WARREN / Staff Photographer
DAVID M WARREN / Staff Photographer
Posted: February 07, 2013

As Pub & Kitchen on Lombard Street prepares for change, with the recent departure of chef Jonathan Adams and a brief closure for renovations in March, the menu under interim chef Palmer Marinelli is as good as ever, from the super-savory whey-braised pork sandwich to the silky salted caramel pudding for dessert.

But if ever there was a dish to carry the devoted through the coldest winter months, it is this stellar take on steak and ale pie. Whole beef shoulders are braised down to tender cubes, then sauced with Black IPA gravy and root veggies, the malty darkness perked with a hops that give a potentially somber stew some bright personality.

Snuggled inside an artful crust that flakes with duck-fat richness, plus a side salad and a reasonable price, this is the kind of irresistible special that makes me hope the new Pub & Kitchen doesn't change too much.

- Craig LaBan

Beef pot pie special, $16, Pub & Kitchen, 1946 Lombard St., 215-545-0350.

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