The mission to make "wrinkles sexy" for America with "geo cheeses" has been quite the learning curve for Vermont Butter & Cheese Creamery.
But their pioneering work with "geo" over the past decade - geotricum yeast added to goat's-milk cheeses fosters a wrinkly rind with multi-textures inside - has resulted in some truly Loire-like gems of American cheesecraft: Bonne Bouche, Coupole, and Bijou, for examples.
But Cremont, an aged goat and cow's milk blend similar to an Italian "due latte" Robiola, may be the geo first-timer's best point of entry.
At once delicate and full-flavored, Cremont's extended shelf-life (85 days) reveals a multitude of personalities. When young, it rises on a fudgy consistency and charming tartness.