December 10, 1989 |
If we're not careful, al dente is liable to die from misuse. Born of the best intentions, al dente was to be the savior of olive-drab string beans and sodden spinach. In a revolution of crispness and color, it redefined what vegetable cooking was, rescuing the downtrodden side dish from decades of boiling abuse. Al dente - an Italian phrase that describes the fleeting moment in cooking when an ingredient has lost its crispness but is not yet fully soft - literally translates as "to the tooth.
January 21, 2016
Makes 6 servings Extra virgin olive oil 1 pound farfalle (I like DiCecco, made in the hills of Abruzzo near my family's home). 4 ounces frozen or canned peas 4 ounces heavy cream 16 ounces San Marzano tomatoes chopped coarsely Chopped parsley Salt and pepper Hard asiago cheese 1. Cook pasta al dente. 2. Cover base of saucepan with olive oil and heat over low flame. Add pasta and heat for a minute. Add heavy cream. Stir. Add tomatoes.
July 12, 2012
1 whole egg 3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese or part pecorino and part Parmesan ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon salt 4 ounces spaghetti 2 teaspoons unsalted butter (or use salted butter and less salt) 2 teaspoons olive oil 4 ounces pancetta cut into ¼-inch-thick slices (substitute 4 strips crumbled bacon or 4 tablespoons bacon bits) 1. In a large bowl, whisk together egg, cheese, and pepper. Keep bowl near stove.
March 21, 1990 |
Pasta that boils to al dente in 10 or 12 minutes is always a boon to cooks in a hurry. Pasta that doesn't need to be boiled at all is even more of a busy-day helper. In the recipe that follows, thin spaghetti, called spaghettini, is broken into two-inch lengths and added to stir-fried broccoli rabe with a small amount of chicken broth. The pasta cooks with the broccoli in about 10 to 12 minutes. And no, the result is neither starchy nor mushy. Broccoli rabe is the distinctive, thin-stemmed broccoli beloved by Italian cooks for its interesting, slightly bitter flavor.
February 5, 2016
Although it's a good idea to take a break from the holiday overload of carbs, it's important not to lump all carbohydrates together. Veggies, whole fruits, beans, and whole grains are carb-rich foods we should resolve to eat more of. They are satisfying and packed with essential nutrients, health-protective antioxidants, and fiber. Orecchiette With Escarole, White Beans 4 servings 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, more for pasta water 12 ounces dried whole-grain orecchiette pasta 1/4 cup olive oil 4 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1 medium head escarole, chopped (6 cups lightly packed; may sub kale, spinach, or arugula)
October 21, 1990 |
Fast proliferating, Italian restaurants are all the rage these days; indeed, dozens of new places have been opening the past year or so in seemingly endless splendor. But few can match the quality of the home cooking at the new Riviera Ristorante & Pizza in Sharp's Run Plaza outside Medford. Riviera shares space with a pizza operation on one side, but make no mistake: The restaurant side has memorable cuisine at low prices you'll long remember. Small enough for intimate dining (it seats only 36)
October 26, 1986 |
Now and then a menu comes along that is so appealing that the temptation to order everything on it is nearly irresistible. That's the case with Dolly's Place, a little-known restaurant in Blackwood with a mouth-watering selection of southern Italian dishes. Open since January, Dolly's is akin to those South Philadelphia neighborhood restaurants where the owner knows most of her customers and makes the rounds to ensure that everyone is happy. There's little worry of that, for the food is pleasant - although sometimes over-spiced - and prices are moderate.
November 6, 1988 |
Riding the boom in Italian restaurants that is sweeping South Jersey, Filomena Cucina Italiana has quickly become a fine place for good, home-cooked southern Italian cuisine. The small, attractively decorated restaurant opened several months ago in the Commerce Plaza I shopping center in Clementon with pleasant dishes at affordable prices. The mirrored dining room is decorated in a warm, vaguely Art Deco style. Ocean-green booths are spacious and comfortable, while tables with chocolate- colored covers are set with white cotton napkins, an oil-fed wick with hurricane shade and a bouquet of baby's breath and both white and beet-red carnations.
November 1, 1987 |
There seems to be something special about the intersection of Fulton and Roebling Streets in the Chambersburg section of Trenton that attracts good restaurants. Johnny Boston's Cafe, generally acknowledged to be one of Trenton's best restaurants, occupied this location for many years until being succeeded in 1985 by Sal DeForte's Ristorante, a worthy replacement. Indeed, in an area filled with notable Italian restaurants, DeForte's is one of the best, although it is no match for nearby Francesco's.
February 14, 2013
Makes 8 to 10 servings 1 onion, peeled and quartered 6 ounces (approximate- ly 11 slices) bacon or pancetta Small handful fresh parsley 1 clove garlic, peeled 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 cups lentils, brown or green, rinsed 14-ounce can diced tomatoes, plus 12/3 cups cold water to rinse out 2 bay leaves 21/2 quarts chicken or ...