December 20, 1992 |
In this age of low-cholesterol, calorie- counting, salt-free, fat-free, eat 'n' run eating, Christmas dinner stands alone, resounding a mighty "Bah! Humbug!" to all our gastronomic Scroogery. Tradition dictates that a Christmas feast has to show a little bit of excess. Choices include roasted ribs of beef dripping juice over Yorkshire pudding; a goose big enough to dwarf Santa, and stuffed with sauerkraut and caraway; or a loin of pork decorated with fruit and a crackling crust of rosemary, sage and garlic.
August 9, 1992 |
Things western, from wearing apparel to dancing, are pretty hot these days, fueled by the American spirit of freedom, the love of wide-open spaces and Garth Brooks. To capture the essence of the Old West, today's urban cowboys need only put on some Rocky Mountain jeans and a John Wayne cavalry bib shirt, and rustle up some western-style grub - good, slow-cooking, full-flavored and thoroughly American food. Back in the old days, when the cowpokes rode the range, there always seemed to be an aging cowboy with a limp in his swagger and frying grease on his chaps who cooked the food on the cattle drives.
September 28, 1992 |
It used to be that The Big Steak Dinner was a proud emblem of The Good Life. Now, for many, it has come to represent excess, recklessness and retrograde thinking. Fingered as a culprit in heart disease and several forms of cancer, the eating of beef has inspired, in some quarters, the same scorn as drinking too much at a party and then driving home. But now it faces a new, more complicated assault, one that seeks to establish beef as the mother of all evils, the Saddam Hussein of the U.S. food chain.
March 26, 2002 |
McDonald's Corp., facing a series of problems in international markets, is warning that its profits are likely to be below expectations for the first quarter and all of 2002. The fast-food company is being hurt by weak foreign currencies, especially the euro. Also, concerns about the safety of beef in Japan continue to affect sales in that country. In addition, sales in Latin America are down, and the company is closing stores in Turkey. McDonald's, in an earnings update, forecast quarterly earnings per share of 29 cents to 30 cents, excluding onetime charges.
November 22, 1995 |
In a culinary climate in which we increasingly place meatlessness next to godliness, even the holy burger has started showing herbiferous signs. Don't panic. The all-beef patty still ranks at the top of every food-trend chart, but there's a spreading acceptance for burgers made from something other than beef. Ground turkey was the first to make inroads. It looked and cooked like ground meat, and it alleviated fears of the much dreaded fat. Unfortunately, with little fat it also didn't have much to keep it moist, help it brown, or give it flavor.
July 1, 2016 |
When we think of beef short ribs, what generally comes to mind is the large boneless variety served braised in restaurants, or the crosscut ribs with three or four small pieces of bone in them that are found on supermarket shelves and in butcher display cases. But a mouthwatering photo of beef ribs on the cover of a barbecue cookbook recently brought back memories of the monstrous rack of Montreal-style smoked short ribs my party ordered at Abe Fisher, and the dinosaur bone I polished off at Fette Sau. As the Fourth of July approached, with a long weekend for a cooking project, I began my short ribs research for that very cut: I discovered that the most desirable cut for smoking (and the cut served at Abe Fisher and Fette Sau)
January 16, 2011 |
It was an impromptu tasting: Stephen Starr and his brain trust assembled at the 10-seat table in a window bay at the Dandelion on the one-week anniversary of its opening, nine days ago. It is a welcome beacon on the corner of 18th and Sansom, a Victorian lantern over the door, wood-burning fireplaces being goaded into flame, British knickknacks aplenty, room-temperature (and chilled) beer, and sturdy, reclaimed banisters; in all, $3.5 million worth of painful, skillful rehab stuffed with two shipping containers of Anglo-paraphernalia.
June 24, 2016 |
Most of the customers at Stargazy, chef Sam Jacobson's British pie-and-mash shop, come in very hungry and leave very happy. Most. "I've had a woman throw a tantrum here," says the relocated Londoner, who opened last fall on East Passyunk Avenue. The trigger for her freak-out: spotting the word tripe on Stargazy's menu board. Jacobson had made a pie filled with bits of the beef stomach, slow-cooked in the French style with cider, cream, brandy, mustard, and herbs, as a daily special.
October 9, 1988 |
The general belief is that people don't eat steaks any longer. First of all, they're too expensive. Not only that - they're bad for your arteries. And nobody wants to go to restaurants to dance the way they did in the 1940s and '50s, to the melodic strains of Gershwin and Cole Porter. That's all old hat. All of which means that if you're looking for prime aged steaks marbled with fat that melts into delicious juiciness, and if you want soft music, romantic dining, sentimental entertainment, you'll have to travel to the Smithsonian Institution.
December 18, 2008 |
In some homes, a pricey beef roast is the yuletide equivalent of Thanksgiving's sweet potato and marshmallow casserole: essential. Yet in tougher times such as these, a $100 rack of prime rib is out of the question for many hosts, a $150 cut of filet mignon unthinkable. Even for those who can afford it, luxury meat can seem distasteful, an edible symbol of the excesses that have contributed to our financial woes. "I've served prime rib for the past five years . . . but this year we'll be doing a turkey," says Lois West, a school administrator and Center City resident.