Broccoli Rabe

Were it located in the genteel wilds of Birchrunville, Chester County, say, or Malvern, even, green farmlands lapping at the doorstep, Osteria's poignant gesture to fresh and local might not be that much worth the noting. But for those who haven't had occasion to visit, let us set the scene: The casual sister to Marc Vetri's eponymous Vetri is just a handful of blocks north on Broad Street from Vine, though still south of Temple University, which is to say in a stretch of faded urbanity to which the noun revival cannot (yet)

Broccoli has become so popular that there are now whole cookbooks written on the subject. As a child of the 1950s, I was fed fresh broccoli rabe with olive oil and garlic by my mother, who was an excellent Italian cook. When we had "American" broccoli, it was from the freezer section. Today, when I cook broccoli, it is always fresh - whether it is broccoli rabe or the "American" kind. To prepare broccoli rabe or broccoli, I trim off and discard about 1-inch of the toughest part of the stem.

Some would argue that you don't mess with perfection. The South Philly roast pork sandwich with broccoli rabe and sharp provolone, for example. Or that Americanized Chinese staple, the egg roll. But Ben Byruch artfully combines the two at his ambitious South Street small-plate BYO, Sonam. For his "Italian egg rolls," Byruch shreds pork and broccoli rabe, layers in provolone, and adds roasted yellow peppers in an egg-roll wrapper. The rolls are deep-fried, cut on the bias, and served with a side of sun-dried sweet-chili sauce that balances the bitterness of the broccoli rabe and tempers the provolone.

Look out Tony Luke's: You've got competition uptown. Her name: Helen Morganstein. Morganstein works the counter at The Carousel Shop on 3rd Street between Walnut and Locust, a small, 26-year-old ice cream shop and luncheonette. She seems like a sweet lady to the kids ordering ice cream cones and the neighbors who drop by to chat, but Morganstein is fierce when she's in the kitchen. Her customers keep asking for her roast pork and broccoli rabe sandwich, a recipe that requires a day's worth of roasting and some serious pork-pulling.

Pasta that boils to al dente in 10 or 12 minutes is always a boon to cooks in a hurry. Pasta that doesn't need to be boiled at all is even more of a busy-day helper. In the recipe that follows, thin spaghetti, called spaghettini, is broken into two-inch lengths and added to stir-fried broccoli rabe with a small amount of chicken broth. The pasta cooks with the broccoli in about 10 to 12 minutes. And no, the result is neither starchy nor mushy. Broccoli rabe is the distinctive, thin-stemmed broccoli beloved by Italian cooks for its interesting, slightly bitter flavor.

Yo, Chefs! Recently, I had dinner with my husband at Phil's Tavern in Broad Axe, near Blue Bell. It was the first time we've ever eaten there, and we were pleasantly surprised with the menu. I ordered one of the specials, which was delicious penne pasta with chicken tenders, broccoli rabe, tomatoes and white beans. This would be a great entree to prepare at home for guests. I would really love to have the recipe for this dish. Can you help? Paula D. Fan Lafayette Hill Dear Paula, Phil's owner, Charles Compagnucci, earned his restaurant stripes during a 10-year stint as general manager of the legendary South Philly stalwart, Pat's Steaks.

"When I was a kid" reminisces Mike Anastasio, owner of Anastasio Produce in South Philadelphia, "broccoli rabe was strictly Italian. No one else bought it. Portobello mushrooms? You had to go to Italy for them. " Not so anymore. Broccoli rabe (also known as rapini or Chinese flowering cabbage) originated in Asia and proliferated in the Mediterranean region. Now crates of the leafy vegetable from California and Mexico are piled up in city and suburban markets. And outsize Portobello mushrooms, 6 inches or more in diameter, are grown on our doorstep in Kennett Square.

A savory pie is an easy one-dish entree, made even easier with a refrigerated pie crust. Any number of ingredients - fresh or leftovers - can be bound in an egg-based filling. Prepare a soup, salad or vegetable side dish during the "walk-away" baking time. Double the recipe and stash the extra, once cooled, in the freezer for a time-crunched future meal. (Thaw the baked tart in the refrigerator and reheat at 350 degrees for 20 minutes. Or microwave it on low for 3 minutes to thaw, then 3 minutes on high to reheat.

Go for the meat, stay for the veggies. One of the world's best roast beef sandwiches can be found at Shank's & Evelyn's, 932 S. 10th St. (215-629-1093). The place is famous for it. They go through two roasts a day. The gravy is to die for. But in the last couple of years - believe it or not - a vegetarian grinder has been gaining ground at this local landmark. With South Philly frankness, Evelyn Perri calls this challenger the health sandwich. Two years ago, Perri, who runs a tight ship at this all-female-operated luncheonette, came up with this combo of mushrooms, spinach, zucchini, asparagus, roast peppers and broccoli rabe, when she can get it, on a hoagie roll from the Pisanelli Bakery a couple of blocks away on 11th Street.

Feeling a bit down? Got the midwinter blahs? Want a bit of mood elevation, readily available without prescription, easy to take and tasty, too? Try pasta. It's the tranquilizer supreme, according to the mood-food gurus. Why does a plate of spaghetti relieve anxiety and stress? Because it's a great source of pure carbohydrate, and carbohydrates stimulate the production of serotonin, a neurotransmitter central to feelings of happiness and well-being. Any kind of pasta will do, in quantities as small as 2 ounces at a time.

If there's one thing we know at the Daily News, it's pizza. Specifically, free pizza. So we tossed a couple pies on the ol' expense account to see what Joe Stanfa is serving up at his new - and rather affordable - restaurant in Grays Ferry. Our critics, who were guaranteed anonymity, gave the pizza mixed reviews. But that doesn't mean we won't return to try the chicken cutlet with roasted peppers, broccoli rabe and sharp provolone. Reporter #1: "This pizza is like the button men of old, before wiseguys tried to become celebrities - solid but not flashy.

IN MARTINS FERRY, Ohio, the police chief is going to jail. A jury yesterday found suspended chief Barry Carpenter guilty of receiving stolen property, theft in office and tampering with evidence relating to a break-in at the home of Michelle Ross, the surrogate mother who carried twins for Sarah Jessica Parker and Matthew Broderick. Carpenter was acquitted on charges of burglary and unauthorized use of property or services. Carpenter put his head in his hands after the verdict was read.

Services have been set for Al Martino, the popular South Philly crooner who later in his career played the Sinatra-esque Johnny Fontane in the 1972 hit movie The Godfather . Mr. Martino, 82, whose birth name was Alfred Cini, died Tuesday at his home in Springfield, Delaware County. Alfred Cini said his father collapsed after suffering an apparent heart attack while cooking, and emergency medical technicians couldn't revive him. Mr. Martino loved cooking and singing, his son said, and was delighted when people raved about his food.

Here are some good-tasting recipes that won't break the budget. Try adding other fresh vegetables to this delicious soup, such as diced sweet bell peppers, diced zucchini, cut green beans or shredded cabbage FISH & CORN CHOWDER 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 medium onion, trimmed and cut in small dice 1/2 cup each diced celery and carrot 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme or oregano (or 2 teaspoons chopped, fresh) 4 cups water, or vegetable or chicken broth 2 cups 1/2-inch diced potatoes, skins on 1 cup corn kernels 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley 3/4 pound tilapia, catfish or any inexpensive fish, cut into chunks 1 cup low-fat milk or evaporated skim milk Salt and pepper to taste In a large saucepan, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat.

Were it located in the genteel wilds of Birchrunville, Chester County, say, or Malvern, even, green farmlands lapping at the doorstep, Osteria's poignant gesture to fresh and local might not be that much worth the noting. But for those who haven't had occasion to visit, let us set the scene: The casual sister to Marc Vetri's eponymous Vetri is just a handful of blocks north on Broad Street from Vine, though still south of Temple University, which is to say in a stretch of faded urbanity to which the noun revival cannot (yet)

Some would argue that you don't mess with perfection. The South Philly roast pork sandwich with broccoli rabe and sharp provolone, for example. Or that Americanized Chinese staple, the egg roll. But Ben Byruch artfully combines the two at his ambitious South Street small-plate BYO, Sonam. For his "Italian egg rolls," Byruch shreds pork and broccoli rabe, layers in provolone, and adds roasted yellow peppers in an egg-roll wrapper. The rolls are deep-fried, cut on the bias, and served with a side of sun-dried sweet-chili sauce that balances the bitterness of the broccoli rabe and tempers the provolone.

A savory pie is an easy one-dish entree, made even easier with a refrigerated pie crust. Any number of ingredients - fresh or leftovers - can be bound in an egg-based filling. Prepare a soup, salad or vegetable side dish during the "walk-away" baking time. Double the recipe and stash the extra, once cooled, in the freezer for a time-crunched future meal. (Thaw the baked tart in the refrigerator and reheat at 350 degrees for 20 minutes. Or microwave it on low for 3 minutes to thaw, then 3 minutes on high to reheat.

NEW THIS YEAR Merchandise Pin Trading Center (Majestic Clubhouse Store): Collectible pins are available for sale and trade. Includes numerous styles, plus a Pin of the Month. A new look in the Majestic Clubhouse Store features Phillies exclusive merchandise and new on-field apparel. Make Your Own Phanatic Dolls: The store will offer its first-ever Tie Dye Teddy, arriving in May, branded to the Phillies. Chase Utley lithographs for charity: These autographed lithograph prints and giclees on canvas will be sold on the concourse during home games.

CHEFS MAKE New Year's resolutions, too. But while you and I are fretting about the 10 pounds we want to lose, or trying to cut down on our nicotine habit, chefs are vowing to serve more organic produce and avoid ho-hum flavor combinations. We asked a dozen of the area's hardest-working chefs to tell us what their foodie New Year's resolutions are for 2007. You'll be surprised at what they said. _ Kibett Mengech, executive chef at Ansill, is known for serving, shall we say, unusual meats.

Love is juicy, pungent, redolent. It's like garlic. It lingers, makes a mess, leaves a mark. You know what love is not? A box of chocolates. The concept of romance, especially around Valentine's Day, as something sweet, fussy, pristine, expensive and, inevitably, French, is so pervasive and tired as to be sitcom trite. Beyond that, it's just wrong - romance as an artificial, aspirational state detached from passion and longing, as if engineered by a Harlequin hack, not a seasoned adult.