Butter

Percy Street Barbecue is known for ribs, brisket, and the like. Three years in at Ninth and South Streets, chef Erin O'Shea has added seafood and Southern dishes to her menu, channeling her Southern cooking roots. She gets grits from Byrd Mill in Ashland, Va. They cook all day in chicken stock with a touch of butter and salt before they're chilled overnight; the next day, cooks hit 'em with more stock, butter, and salt, and serve them with surry sausage, fried oysters, and pickled red onion ($8)

Try a few of these Julia gems, recipes she and her friends compiled during her formative culinary years in France. Hollandaise is a delicately flavored sauce, good with vegetables, fish and eggs. This Boiling Butter Method is easier than some - a "Hollandaise without tears" that uses standard butter and takes about 5 minutes to make. HOLLANDAISE 2 teaspoons lemon juice (or for a more strongly flavored sauce, reduce the following to 2 teaspoons: 2 tablespoons wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons water or dry white wine and 1 teaspoon minced shallot)

Makes 16 to 20 servings 4 cups flour 2 cups sugar 1/2 pound (2 sticks) butter, room temperature,    cut into cubes 2 cups boiling water 1 tablespoon baking soda 1 cup molasses 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees and grease the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking pan. 2. Combine flour, sugar, and butter into crumbs in a large bowl, using two knives, a pastry blender, or your fingers. Reserve one cup of crumbs for the topping. 3. In a separate large bowl, add the baking soda and molasses to the boiling water.

1 cup flour ½ cup brown sugar 6 tablespoons butter, cut into 6 pieces Pinch of salt     1. In the bowl of a food processor, blend ingredients well.   Note: Favorite Crisp Topping Variations: 1. Add ½ cup walnuts, pecans, or almonds. 2. Substitute up to ½ cup of rolled oats for some of the flour. 3. Add 1 teaspoon cinnamon or cardamom to the mixture. 4. Use vegetable oil instead of butter. 5. Add 2 more tablespoons butter for a more crumbly topping.

Eggs served up in charming porcelain ramekins, custard cups, or other shallow individual baking dishes make breakfast special. Compared to poaching, scrambling and other top-of-stove cooking methods for eggs, baking may require a little more time and attention. But serving eggs in the same dishes in which they're baked keeps them piping hot and can enhance the presentation. Tantalizing accompaniments and toppings for baked eggs make up for any extra effort. Tips. Here are a few ideas: To add flavor and color and help keep the egg from sticking to the dish, spoon into each baking dish a bed of pureed spinach, chopped ham, chunky tomato sauce, and/or sauteed mushrooms and onions.

In the glare of spotlights, the huge maples and tulip poplars cast menacing shadows and the night fog shrouds the Rancocas Creek in mystery. That is the view through the picture windows of Flo's Lakeside Tavern, an informal bar-restaurant that opened in Hainesport a year ago. The setting is definitely rural, both inside and out, and if your culinary expectations are not too high, Flo's offers a pleasant, off-the-beaten-path excursion. The restaurant is in a converted house flanked by beds of yellow mums and incongruously framed by piers bound with hawser.

While a Weiner schnitzel is often called a sausage, it is always, most definitely, a cutlet. In Philadelphia, Weiner schnitzel is available at Ludwig's Garten, at 1315 Sansom St., where authentic German and Austrian delights are prepared. To make the Schnitzel Sandwich, the pork or veal is pounded until tender, then fried up in clarified butter and white wine. Grab a beer and it's Oktoberfest anytime! LUDWIG'S GARTEN SCHNITZEL SANDWICH 6 oz. pork loin or veal top round 2 eggs, beaten 1/2 cup flour 1/2 cup bread crumbs 2 oz. clarified butter 2 oz. white wine 1 wedge of lemon 3 slices of beefsteak tomato 2 leaves Romaine lettuce 2 slices bread of choice Pound the meat thin with mallet.

32 ounces mushroom stock or chicken broth 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 clove fresh garlic, minced 6 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, chopped 4 ounces fresh oyster mushrooms, chopped 4 ounces fresh portobello mushrooms, chopped 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, chopped 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 12 ounces arborio rice 6 ounces white wine (preferably dry, such as a Chablis) 2 scallions, chopped 1 sprig Italian parsley, chopped 2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated Salt and pepper to taste   1. In a saucepan, heat broth or stock to simmer and hold.

Once Upon a Porch was an ice-cream parlor at Head House Square. It served wonderful ice cream, and people stood in line with their youngsters just to get a taste. But, unfortunately, Once Upon a Porch didn't live happily ever after. In its place, a new ice-cream parlor evolved. Which was good. Because if you felt like getting in some cool, creamy licks, you could now venture down to Head House Square and get some at Any Thyme. Alas, the new place didn't live happily ever after either.

For bubble and squeak: 1 pound Idaho potatoes, peeled 3 ounces butter, plus more for cooking 1 leek, cleaned and thinly sliced 1/2 head green cabbage, thinly sliced 3 ounces heavy cream Vegetable oil Salt and pepper 8 ounces sliced smoked salmon 4 eggs (optional) For dill hollandaise: 6 egg yolks 1 lemon 14 ounces clarified butter 1 sprig fresh dill, chopped   1. Place potatoes in a stockpot and cover with cold water.