February 27, 2000 |
Fritz Blank, the chef-owner of Deux Cheminees, flipped open a Styrofoam takeout container and set it down before the eight guests gathered around the staff dining table in his restaurant kitchen. The provocative hors d'oeuvre was local muskrat, trapped in Salem County, New Jersey, and brought back from a dinner that Blank had attended the night before. Everyone bravely took a pinch of the dark meat, which could have passed for pot roast. The muskrat, Blank noted, had been simmered in court bouillon with fistfuls of allspice to mellow its strong flavor, then sauteed in a sea of butter, resulting in a taste rather like "a cross between goose and snapping turtle.
December 28, 2015 |
What follows is a summary of the restaurants reviewed this year, primarily on Sundays, but also in Thursday Food features. As always, there were second chances and revisits to a handful of restaurants to check for improvement. I went back to six places that seemed within striking distance of a rating change - those are designated with an asterisk. Good news there: One stepped up from two to three bells (Aldine), one moved from one to two (Ardé), another climbed out of the no-bells basement (Bonchon)
June 29, 2012 |
Your restaurant is riding high. Day after day, plates of food go out of the kitchen looking beautiful and come back empty. Costs are in line. Employees are happy. Then one day, the chef sits you down. "I'm leaving. " Such is what happened recently at Fork, Ellen Yin's bistro in Old City. Terence Feury, who joined Yin to fanfare in January 2009, said he had a golden opportunity to invest in the renovation of the Old Swedes Inn in Swedesboro, Gloucester County, and to lead its kitchen later this summer when it opens as Tavro 13. Yin might have been surprised, but she could not have been shocked.
February 22, 2010 |
There was cannon fire in Philadelphia on the morning of Feb. 22, 1797, as 16 rounds of salute - one for each state - rang out in celebration of the nation's greatest hero. It was the 65th birthday of George Washington, the "man who united all hearts," as John Quincy Adams called him. And with Washington's final weeks as president ahead, the event was celebrated with "more sincere joy" than ever, according to the Philadelphia Gazette. People of all classes paraded to the President's House at Sixth and Market.
July 9, 2011 |
Niki Vrooman Perry, 38, of South Philadelphia, a chef, writer, and advocate for brain-cancer research, died of the disease Thursday, June 30, at home. Mrs. Perry was diagnosed with a malignant brain tumor in 2006. The cancer was treated with chemotherapy, surgery, and radiation. She shared her quest for a cure and her experience with the medical establishment on Internet message boards and as a frequent contributor to a website sponsored by the Musella Foundation for Brain Tumor Research and Information.
April 16, 2012 |
ERNEST Strother was not really a born renegade, but he couldn't stand injustice when he encountered it. That acute sense of right and wrong that guided him all his life might have had its origin in the segregated South of his childhood. It was when he was in 10th grade at Abbeville High School, in Abbeville, S.C., in the early '30s that Ernest became aware that the "separate but equal" doctrine followed by many Southern school districts was a farce. The whites-only and blacks-only schools were separate, all right, but rarely equal.
March 18, 1989 |
John Janus 88, a restaurateur and chef who was a leader in Philadelphia's restaurant renaissance, died Wednesday near his home in the Pennsport section of the city. Mr. Janus worked in the restaurant business for nearly five decades, capping his career with the opening in 1970 of Konstantino's, a restaurant at the corner of Second and South Streets modeled after a Greek taverna and featuring ethnic entertainment daily. The business was among those that helped boost the fortunes of the Head House Square area.
April 6, 2009 |
Personable and sociable, 13-year-old Mikal loves to talk and enjoys meeting new people. He has a great sense of humor and gets along well with his peers and adults. Among his many interests are gardening, playing video games, and cooking. Mikal has two possible careers in mind: veterinarian and chef. He recently had the opportunity to increase his culinary skills when he visited with a chef at a hotel restaurant. Mikal received some cooking tips and in return created one of his favorite dishes - crabcakes.
December 15, 2011
Bio: 38; she's single, grew up in Media and now lives in Cochranville. What's new? The menu at Meritage Restaurant & Wine Bar (20th and Locust, 215-985-1922), where she is executive chef. Philly restaurant connections: Le Bec-Fin, Susanna Foo, Savona (her first chef gig). Starting out: At 22, as a server at the Village Porch in Springfield. Favorite ingredient: "Salt and pepper . . . I'm joking. I use a lot of citrus and a lot of zest. " On working with Georges Perrier: "A great experience.
October 10, 1997 |
Gennaro Gabriele, who left his home in Italy as a teenager and went on to become the executive chef at one of the Philadelphia area's oldest and most popular restaurants, died Wednesday at Grand View Hospital in West Rockhill Township. He was 101 and resided in North Wales. For 47 years - from 1924 until his retirement at age 75 in 1971 - he was executive chef at William Penn Inn in Gwynedd, Montgomery County. Mr. Gabriele was born in Arpino, Italy, and went to school only through the third grade because he had to help support his family.