September 3, 2000 |
It is the ultimate instrument of flavor in my repertoire of minimalist cooking. It is my definitive improv riff, capable of giving my late summer garden harvest a fragrant high-gloss sheen, or, satisfying my hunger as is, just plain. And though it is virtually invisible, a simple sauce of garlic and olive oil done right can be more memorable than all the dark stock and frothy butter sauces in France. Then again, aglio e olio is Italian. Aaaah-leo-ooooh-leo. It's as delicious to say as it is to eat. So why, I've often wondered, is it so hard to find a proper rendition in restaurants?
November 7, 1990 |
Bobbi Katz has been making her incredibly good hummus for nearly 20 years, but instead of stirring up a batch to take to a party, she's making it in vats these days. And sending it to supermarkets. Harriet's Favorite Hummus, which won a Philadelphia Magazine "Best of Philly" award this year, is not your traditional, find-it-in-any-veggie- cookbook hummus. Sure it has lots of chickpeas, garlic, fresh-squeezed lemon juice and a little olive oil . . . but there's also ginseng in it. And it's missing tahini - sesame seed butter - which means it's lower in fat than many other hummus recipes and more lemony tasting.
February 8, 1989 |
When I was a little kid, I dreaded the regular family visits to Auntie's flat. Auntie was a great-aunt, my grandmother's only sister. She was a widow and lived on Chicago's Northwest Side when the neighborhood was filled with Eastern European immigrants. Actually, she was a fine, affectionate old lady, with enormous energy. She scrubbed her floors every day. And there were always wonderful meals bubbling on her stove. But when I was told we were going to see Auntie, which happened about every two or three weeks, I had to be almost dragged onto the streetcar.
November 23, 1990 |
You will not get the third-degree at the FBI at 25th and Olive streets in Fairmount. All they'll ask is what you want on your bagel. FBI stands for the just-opened Fairmount Bagel Institute. The sign says, "Home of the Bull Bagel. " What's a bull bagel? It's one with every topping on it - garlic, poppy seeds, onion, you name it. The supremely fresh bagels, 40 cents each, are the size of a small catcher's mitt, and they're softer than most bagels. Varieties include plain, onion, garlic, poppy seed, cinnamon raisin, pumpernickel and honey wheat.
July 3, 2008 |
Tempt your family with juicy, Sicilian-style swordfish steak. Tomatoes, olives and garlic are staples of zesty Sicilian cooking. Raisins add sweetness and a tantalizing contrast. The sauce for the fish can be made in a microwave to save time cooking and in cleanup. Tuna, halibut or grouper can be used in place of swordfish. Sicilian Swordfish Makes two servings 1. Place tomatoes, garlic, olives, raisins and oregano in a microwave-safe bowl. Cover with a paper towel and microwave on high 3 minutes.
February 5, 1992 |
Do you love the flavor of those homey bean soups that take hours to cook? Here's a shortcut vegetarian version of the classic white bean soup that can be prepared in less than 30 minutes. The trick is to use canned Great Northern beans and canned chicken broth. Sauteed garlic, onion, carrot and tomato are added for flavor along with fresh sage, which is available in the produce section of most supermarkets. It can be easily recognized by the distinctive spongy texture of its tapering gray-green leaves.
March 31, 2011
Makes about 2 cups or 32 servings 13/4 pounds red jalapeño peppers, stems removed and halved lengthwise 3 cloves garlic 2 tablespoons garlic powder, plus more as needed 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, plus more as needed 1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more as needed 1 tablespoon light-brown sugar 1/2 cup distilled white vinegar, plus more as needed Water, as needed ...
February 12, 1992 |
How often have you peered into the cupboard or refrigerator, scratched your head and declared: "There's nothing here to eat!"? Well, most of those times, there probably was a real meal lurking among those seemingly pedestrian staples, just waiting to be found. Arthur Schwartz, restaurant critic for the New York Daily News, gives expert advice on finding those elusive dishes in What to Cook When You Think There's Nothing in the House to Eat (Harper, $15 paperback). "This is not a fancy food cookbook," Schwartz writes.
September 2, 1990 |
The zucchini are coming! The zucchini are coming! Hiding under mulch and poking through the foliage, they are ready to take over your garden, your refrigerator and half your life, if you don't take measures now to stem the tide. There are untold quantities of zucchini breads, stews, soups, muffins and sautes to help kitchen victims cope with the summer produce avalanche. The trick to meeting such an invasion of summer squash with the coolness of a cucumber is simple. You need only an oversize pot, a hefty supply of freezer bags and a recipe that can turn your kitchen into a processing plant.
April 12, 2009 |
This comeback was a long time coming for the French bistro, which had been knocked off its frites around here for years by that bout of post-9/11 anti-France silliness. But there is obviously a timeless appeal to a crock of caramelized onion soup sealed beneath a molten beret of Gruyère cheese. Folks can stay away from their escargots in garlic butter only so long. Since the moratorium on liking France began to lift recently, like the end of a gloomy existentialist funk, all of Philly, it seems, has been living La Vie en Rose.