June 19, 2002 |
Look out Tony Luke's: You've got competition uptown. Her name: Helen Morganstein. Morganstein works the counter at The Carousel Shop on 3rd Street between Walnut and Locust, a small, 26-year-old ice cream shop and luncheonette. She seems like a sweet lady to the kids ordering ice cream cones and the neighbors who drop by to chat, but Morganstein is fierce when she's in the kitchen. Her customers keep asking for her roast pork and broccoli rabe sandwich, a recipe that requires a day's worth of roasting and some serious pork-pulling.
May 2, 1986 |
The owner plays the piano and sings ballads of love and romance while candles flicker on every table. The chef, meanwhile, blends lots of garlic into soup and sauces and even spreads it thickly on the bread. Good for your heart, tough on romance, despite Tom Borrelli's earnest crooning. The heavy-handed use of garlic and the soft music are just one of the inconsistencies of Cafe Borrelli, a well- intentioned new Center City restaurant. The waitresses are pretty, pleasant, and unpolished.
March 9, 1990 |
After the waiter described the veal-chop special, I asked if garlic could be added. He said it could and then offered another way to prepare it. I countered with yet another. The waiter paused, perhaps sizing up the limits of my adventuresome nature. "The chef also makes the veal chop with anchovies," he said, showing confidence in his kitchen. "You'd be surprised - it's really very, very good. It's a recipe of Marcella Hazan's. " Aside from having a fondness for anchovies and garlic, I'm particularly enamored with what popular cook-teacher-author Hazan does with and for Italian cooking.
May 4, 1988 |
There are different stories as to how a basic Italian tomato sauce made from whole tomatoes became known as a marinara sauce. Since marinara translates closely from Italian to "sailor suit," some say that the sauce was described thusly in areas that bordered the sea. Others claim the name was bestowed upon the sauce by the wives of the sailors - mariners - who prepared it when their husbands returned home. Yet another tale says the name comes from the sailors themselves, from the days before refrigeration when meat would perish on a long journey but a tomato could survive long enough to become a delicious sauce made with herbs.
November 29, 1989 |
Many people, when they taste tripe for the first time, are surprised by its delicate, mild flavor. They expect it to be tough and strong-tasting. Some home cooks are not even quite sure what tripe is. Generally speaking, it is a section of a bovine's stomach, though the definition sometimes is extended to include stomach sections of goats, pigs, sheep and even deer. Plain tripe is taken from the bovine's first stomach. It's flat with a smooth, rubbery texture. The best tripe comes from the second stomach and looks like a honeycomb - hence the name honeycomb tripe.
August 9, 1989 |
Picnics aren't important, at least not in the sense of being a Big Deal. Unplanned and unpretentious, thrown together and torn into, they're more for relaxing than impressing. Fuss over a picnic and the fun goes out of it. No true picnic takes longer to prepare than it does to eat, nor requires more marketing than picking up a melon on the way to the park. The food should be simple. Extravagance is out of line, for the best picnics do nothing more than fill the belly and leave a smile.
February 15, 1987 |
The day has been super-exhausting, and you're feeling particularly stressed. You're suffering from high anxiety, a million things are on your mind and it's tough falling asleep. Eventually, you make contact with the sandman, only to awaken at 3 a.m. in a head-to-toe state of tension. There's a churning in your stomach. What do you do? Take a sleeping pill? If you're Joseph Della Guardia, you forgo any pharmaceutical solution. Instead, you grab your robe, go down to the kitchen, flip the light switch, throw open the cabinets and begin fishing around for the garlic, basil, olive oil, fettucine and tomatoes.
January 15, 1997 |
Yo, Chefs! I attended the Cezanne exhibit in August as a guest of a close friend. We were served a buffet dinner, and one of the items offered was garlic mashed potatoes. Talk about delicious! Just thinking about it brings the taste back to my mouth. Please, please, please get the recipe for me. I have no idea who catered the dinner, but hope you can get the recipe. Deadra R. Foster, Camden Dear Deadra, This recipe for Garlic Mashed Potatoes comes from the museum's executive chef, Tracey Hopkins.
May 14, 1989 |
Good home-cooked southern Italian cuisine is the ticket for success at Sorrento's Family Italian Restaurant, a popular neighborhood dining place in Lafayette Hill. Indeed, enormous portions of good ingredients in rich, seasoned sauces make Sorrento's well worth a visit. But not everything is wonderful: The decor is minimal, service is less than friendly (downright surly if you call on the phone for information), the restaurant has no liquor license (which they don't tell you in advance)
May 14, 1989 |
At the rate good northern Italian restaurants are springing up in South Jersey, we may soon rival Florence as the world's restaurant capital. The latest is Ristorante Ghizzano in Marlton, a delightful place that replaced Valdy's Fish du Jour four weeks ago. With accomplished Tuscan-style dishes, Ghizzano is remarkably similar to La Grotta Azzurra in Mount Laurel, a coincidence that is hardly surprising since both owner Lido Gililiani and one...