November 3, 2011 |
There's a new team running Xochitl, and executive chef Gabriel Montalvo has created a menu that bridges the Mexican restaurant's two gastropub-like personalities: fine-dining spot and straight-up bar. Take for example his pollo frito , a version of fried chicken that is crunchy, greasless, and worth the $25 tariff. He brines it overnight, then par-cooks it in the steamer, so it stays tender while frying. After weeks of trials, he landed on his ideal, multi-cultural snappy coating: A mixture of all-purpose, corn, potato, and rice flours.
December 17, 2009
The ever-improving Sidecar Bar, a pioneering gastropub in Graduate Hospital, took another step forward this fall with the addition of chef Brian Lofink. Formerly co-chef at Matyson off Rittenhouse Square, Lofink hasn't upscaled Sidecar's inventive bar fare so much as tweaked it with better ingredients. His nachos - usually a dish I dread - were an irresistible example. The gooey jack cheese has been replaced with a genuine Mexican melter - asadero. The salsa, a green tomatillo zinger studded with pineapple, jalapeño, and cilantro, was inspired by Lofink's brief stint with Bobby Flay.
May 13, 2016
Since a change in the kitchen early this year at SouthGate, new chef David Feola has been trying to coax the menu at this Korean-theme gastropub at 18th and Lombard a little farther away from the deep fryer. Wing fans shouldn't fret. The crackly crisp and meaty birds slicked in sweet and spicy sauces here aren't going anywhere. But there's definitely been a push toward some more interesting dishes from the longtime former Vernick sous-chef. A seared snapper over jalapeño-edamame puree is one example.
May 28, 2009
There is mystery and magnetism to a cheese that won't melt, but instead turns golden and crispy on the griddle. And I've always been drawn to such grillers, like Cypriot haloumi, brandy-flamed Greek saganaki, or smoked Italian scamorza. My new favorite, though, is queso fresco from El Abuelito, a North Jersey producer making Mexican cheese in the Puebla style. Queso fresco is soft, fresh and salty (which prevents oozing under heat), and comes as a compressed cake of grainy curds that resembles a dry ricotta.
June 11, 2009
The big guys are finally catching on that consumers want better-tasting, lower-calorie, higher-fiber alternatives to sandwich bread. Pepperidge Farm offers these 100-calorie flat rolls: good toasted with hummus or grilled for paninis. Available in whole wheat, oatmeal, and seven grain. If you need a beer primer to keep up with the crew at the latest gastropub (and who doesn't in brew-crazy Philly?), turn to a new book from local writer Lynn Hoffman for a tasty draft of advice. The Short Course in Beer (Künati)
June 4, 2012 |
Just because "Alla Spina" means "from the tap" doesn't mean those taps only stream with beer. At Marc Vetri's new gastropub, there are also plans to start pouring kegged local wines on draft sometime soon. But while the official details are still being ironed out, beverage director Steve Wildy decided to make good use of his Cornelius homebrewer soda kegs to start pouring Negroni cocktails on draft, too. This classic Italian cocktail of Campari, sweet vermouth, and gin (Bluecoat in my house)
April 24, 2015 |
First in an occasional series spotlighting the city's great restaurant neighborhoods. For an interactive map and a complete list of East Passyunk Avenue restaurants, bars, and cafes, go to philly.com/epunk In the nervous moments just before Paradiso debuted, chef Lynn Rinaldi and her father, Daniel, looked out onto East Passyunk Avenue and waited. A car didn't pass for 20 minutes. "Did you do the right thing here?" he asked his daughter, whom he raised a few blocks away.