April 18, 2010 |
From a quick glance at the flour-dusted baby face that sidled up to our table at Zavino to check on our meal, I'd never have guessed that chef-owner Steven Gonzalez was even remotely near 30 years old. But take a closer look at the angry welts that stripe his forearms - they're hard to miss as he wields a pizza cutter and dusts pinches of cheese atop finished pies in front of the furnace glow of his hot brick oven ? and it's clear Gonzalez is a tested veteran of Philly's rapidly rising pizza wars.
October 28, 2010 |
Everyone I know who visits southern India comes back with a taste for the region's street food called dosa. It's a paper-thin crepe filled with a spicy potato filling. Barring a trip into Manhattan, Philadelphia dosa lovers were left to their dosa memories. No longer so. Nirav Mehta and partner Baldev Singh (who owns two northern Indian restaurants outside the city) took the concept and created Philadelphia Chutney Company. The first location just opened off Rittenhouse Square, and more of these healthy, inexpensive fast-food operations are planned for some university locations.
January 30, 2005 |
As its name implies, Catherine's is a friendly, neighborhood kind of place. Catherine's, a dinner-only BYO in Unionville run by a young married couple, is more refined and sophisticated than gregarious and down-home, however, partly because of its feng shui d?cor and mainly because of its eclectic cuisine. The nine-entr?e menu includes all the favorites that define 21st-century dining - sea scallops, rack of lamb and tuna steak, among them. They are prepared with a great deal of originality and simplicity in mind.
January 16, 2005 |
Phoenixville was founded on ethnic diversity. Now, it can be described as an emerging culinary haven for diverse tastes. In a short span of time, it seems, the borough's landmark eatery, the Columbia Hotel, has received a makeover and new places ranging from hip bistros to sports bars have opened in the heart of the borough. The latest addition is a restaurant that takes its name from a popular pottery made in the 1880s by the Phoenixville firm of Griffen, Smith & Hill. Majolica brings what could be described as a little bit of South Street and Brooklyn's Park Slope to a borough that has worked hard to escape the fate of many former steel towns.
January 25, 1987 |
New York is a city in which some people unflinchingly pay $20 a pound for a designer lettuce known as mache. White strawberries from Chile sell out at $6 a half-pint; wild mushrooms at $30 a pound never have time to wither on store shelves. And so when the Reagan administration announced that it was planning to slap a 200 percent tariff on some of the necessities of Manhattan life and set a date of Friday, the news was greeted in true New York fashion: People are complaining, but they're not going to stop buying.
July 9, 2009 |
A Southern Chef's Love Affair With Italian Food Artisan Books, $40. This cookbook could easily be overlooked as a coffee table book, but that would be an injustice to the author. Stitt is the chef/owner of restaurants in Birmingham, Ala., including the Highlands Bar & Grill, and Bottega Restaurant & Cafe. Winner of the James Beard Foundation's Award for the Best Chef in the Southeast, he was also nominated for 2008 Outstanding Chef. He cooks imaginative Italian food with a Southern twist: pizza with tomato chutney and roasted sweet peppers; potato ravioli with crawfish, candied lemon and Tabasco.
February 13, 1994 |
A storm-caused roof leak had snuffed the lights in our greenhouse dining room at the London Grill in the Art Museum area. For romantic purposes, the candlelit coziness would have been divine. For reviewing, however, the lack of light made certain aspects of the job devilishly difficult. Darkness didn't dim our delight in the flavors of this exceptional restaurant's food, however. Dinner pleasures began with one of the restaurant's good deals, a three- appetizer sampler offered at a bargain price of $9. One of the appetizers was a sliver of smoky-delicious salmon terrine layered with wasabi and caviar.
November 9, 1990 |
The siren scent from Pomodoro's grill wafts out onto the Benjamin Franklin Parkway. It's seductive now, but I imagine it will be even more welcome when winter moves in to stay, and barbecue weather is just a memory. Pomodoro, which means tomato in Italian, is one plum tomato. It is the latest enterprise of Gabe Marabella and Neil Stein, who operate the very popular Marabella's restaurants. With Pomodoro, they take the Marabella's formula - good ingredients, simple preparation, reasonable prices - and give it a sophisticated sheen at slightly higher prices.
August 9, 1992 |
A dark shadow crosses the table. A mighty rumble shakes the plates, gently rattles the silver. Scary? Only at first. In next to no time, customers at Bryn Mawr's Central Bar and Grille get accustomed to the thunder and imposing presence of passing commuter trains. We did, certainly. After the initial shock of having the six-something to Philly roar past our window, we began to look forward to additional arrivals and departures. Central's menu seemed just right for the casual yet exciting setting.
July 9, 1986 |
Local farmers' markets are gearing up for summer's harvest, and From the Farmers' Market (Harper & Row, $10.95) has hit the bookstore market in time to give you some ideas of what to do with your farm bounty when you get it home. Food writer Richard Sax and chef-recipe tester Sandra Gluck have collaborated to produce fresh-from-the-farm recipes utilizing the seasonal produce increasingly available from farmers' markets. This paperback, in the authors' words, is not an encyclopedia of fruits and vegetables; neither is it a guide or a history of farmers' markets.