April 12, 2012 |
Chef Patrick Feury unwrapped the disks of Yellow Springs Farm goat cheese and wiped them down with the gentle touch usually reserved for newborns and puppies. It's all part of his process of aging the product himself, something he learned at cheese school in Vermont last year. When he picks up the goods from the Chester County makers, they are two weeks young. He matures them for two to three more weeks. "Part of serving them is making sure that the characteristics are at their best," says the chef of Nectar, in Berwyn.
January 14, 1998 |
Just like retailers, restaurateurs look forward to the holiday season for the parties, family gatherings and quiet dinners among friends that make the cash register jingle. Clayton's, a popular restaurant on Marlton's Main Street, was doing turn-away business the weekend before Christmas/Hanukkah - and for good reason. On a very busy Saturday night, we were seated for an 8:30 reservation at - lo and behold - 8:30, practically a miracle any time of year. Once seated, though, we, and a number of other guests, waited an extraordinarily long time to be served, due to a meltdown in the kitchen.
April 27, 1990 |
The escargot might have crept out of the restaurant's name: Bistro L'Escargot, on Fifth Street near South, became simply Bistro about six months ago. But the new management wisely has kept the delicious critter on its menu. This cordial cafe offers a laid-back change of pace from formal dining, yet handles its chores seriously and honestly. It offers reasonably priced food from individual pizzas to pastas and select entrees. The new menu is similar to its predecessor - a dish or two missing; a new one added.
May 16, 1986 |
Jimmy Katz brought sun-dried tomatoes and goat cheese and pesto sauce and marinated-shrimp pizza with three cheeses back from Los Angeles. Yo, Adrian, at least he didn't bring the smog and the traffic and Valley girls to wait on tables. Though show biz fame and fortune may have eluded Katz in Hollywood, he had the good sense to latch onto what was fresh and flavorful on the cuisine scene. And that's what he's brought to Jimmy's on Front, his intriguing new restaurant. Most of the food looks good and tastes good.
November 27, 1998 |
Even without a zoot suit or pleated skirt, you can swing into the new Eden Roc complex near 15th and South and order a full-course dinner late-night at midweek. The supper club, an art deco haven whose heart is in the '40s, fills three floors at the space that used to house Foggia (formerly Rodz). Dominick DeSimone - he's the chef - owns and operates the music-drink-food compound with his wife, Adrienne. The menu sports some Florida influences, and the first floor features a long narrow bar called South Beach, a color-splashed room due for some Latin jazz with Al Arguilla today.
November 20, 1987 |
There are all types of restaurants, and restaurants for all types. But never have I run into a restaurant that simply called itself Types. At least until I happened to stroll down Quince Street recently, just around the corner from the Forrest Theater. In quarters that once housed Dave Shore's - a Philadelphia landmark for many years - I found Types, a two-month-old, moderately priced restaurant. What is even more interesting than its name is that it appears on the verge of doing some very good food things.
March 21, 1986 |
Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks? Take Arthur's, Philadelphia's 50-year-old steakhouse, for example. Its new, innovative menu offers something for even the most cholesterol-conscious among us, while still maintaining those prime beef selections on which it used to "steak" its reputation. The dining room still has that large, clubby look, but it literally sparkles. Tables are arranged so that your closest neighbor couldn't touch your bread or appetizer even if he were the Boston Celtics' Kevin McHale.
January 7, 1994 |
South Street lost a bistro when Alex on South closed late last year, but gained another when Adrienne's opened not long afterward one block to the east. Like Alex's, Adrienne's has hearty food, big portions, moderate prices and a casual air, even though the dark-hued, 48-seat dining room hung with equestrian prints has the clubby look of a Ralph Lauren home furnishings showroom. Husband-and-wife proprietors Wally and Adrienne Hertler are on the premises - he working the front of the house, she in charge of the kitchen.
June 26, 2009 |
It has a fairy tale aspect to it . . . a waitress meets a chef at the Old City restaurant where they work. They fall in love, get married, buy a restaurant in Chestnut Hill and become pregnant. Vanessa and Rob Mullen have been living this fairy tale since they took over Campbell's Place last November. But the restaurant was already associated with a beloved couple, Mary and the late Jim Campbell. So how do you make this story - and restaurant - your own? "It's definitely a fine line," Vanessa Mullen aknowledged.
October 28, 2010 |
Everyone I know who visits southern India comes back with a taste for the region's street food called dosa. It's a paper-thin crepe filled with a spicy potato filling. Barring a trip into Manhattan, Philadelphia dosa lovers were left to their dosa memories. No longer so. Nirav Mehta and partner Baldev Singh (who owns two northern Indian restaurants outside the city) took the concept and created Philadelphia Chutney Company. The first location just opened off Rittenhouse Square, and more of these healthy, inexpensive fast-food operations are planned for some university locations.