April 12, 1989 |
Gumbos thickened with dark roux were rarely thought of as dishes for cooks in a hurry, because old methods of making the roux were time-consuming and tricky to pull off. But thanks to a new microwave technique for roux-making from Barbara Kafka's Microwave Gourmet (Morrow), the tastiest gumbos are quick and easy. So, "In a hurry" decided to incorporate this fast brown roux into an equally streamlined gumbo based on everyone's favorite shellfish, shrimp. The term gumbo is a catchall.
February 7, 2008 |
In these northern environs, gumbo is a dish that many think of but once a year, as a marker of the pre-Lent celebration of Mardi Gras. But down in New Orleans, where gumbo is the most important dish in the Louisiana lexicon, most restaurants serve some version of it year round - at least once a week. At this time of year, two days post-Carnival, with strands of glittering beads, doubloons and plastic spears - parade throws all - already gathering dust, Lent has arrived in the largely Catholic city.
May 20, 2011 |
When locals talk about gumbo, they're not always referring to the Louisiana stew laced with meat and veggies. They're talking about Philly Gumbo, the area's tastiest musical ragout of New Orleans parish-based soul, blues, reggae, and dense funk. After 31 years and running, they have finally made a CD, titled Come and Get It - but the fact is, adventurous listeners have made Philly Gumbo a topic of conversation for all of those 31 years, possibly a record when it comes to local bands.
February 14, 1999 |
Carnival parades are rolling through New Orleans already, and the euphoria is surging toward Fat Tuesday. The momentum rises with every strutting brass band, every spectacular float that glides by, every glittering string of Mardi Gras beads that land in your outstretched hands like treasure from above. An afternoon of parade-going, though, can also stoke a fierce hunger. But there are few occasions when the city's lusty pageant of food is in such abundance. All along the parade routes on St. Charles and Carrollton Avenues, friends open their homes for parties, and their porches become perfumed with the pungent aroma of rustic Creole and Cajun pot cooking.
February 4, 2010
Here is an excerpt from Craig LaBan's online chat: Craig LaBan: I've gotta love a Super Bowl with a culinary theme - I'm planning to make some of my best NOLA dishes this weekend (jambalaya, maybe a gumbo) . . . but can't do that without the proper smoked meats. I'm online ordering from Jacob's Andouille this year, chef John Besh's favorite. In the past, I've had good success with Best Stop in Lafayette, and Cajun Grocer, an excellent online source for all Louisiana products.
May 22, 1992 |
Fats Domino and 1,500 pounds of catfish. Dr. John and 115 gallons of steaming jambalaya. Shrimp, gumbo, crawfish. Let the good times roll. Philadelphia's Jambalaya Jam, the world's largest festival of New Orleans music outside of New Orleans, returns to the Delaware River waterfront this weekend with all the foot-stomping, body-shaking and stomach-stuffing that has made it a huge draw for the last six years. The festival, sponsored by USAir and run by the Philadelphia Convention & Visitors Bureau, has become the grand announcement of summer in the city, three days of hot music, spicy food and endless fun to usher in the hot season.
February 3, 2008 |
The historic downtown strip of Medford, a quaint Victorian village on the fringes of the Pinelands, is about the last place I expected to encounter a "hey y'all!" bowl of Louisiana gumbo. But there it was the other night, steaming "ya-ya" style around a scoop of rice, with tender morsels of chicken bumping up against smoky moons of andouille sausage in a spice-tingled broth turned chestnut brown by patiently darkened roux. That it was served in a trendy square bowl is a small soul concession to the striving elegance of Ted's on Main, the year-and-a-half-old bistro where I was eating.
September 24, 2009
Classic bouquet garni is a mixture of herbs tied with string or wrapped in cheesecloth to flavor soups and stews. This French import does the work for you and will make your fall soups sing. Wrapped in bay leaves, each bouquet contains chervil, oregano, thyme and marjoram. Crafty caramels Jennifer Bell was just out of college in Oregon and strapped for cash when she began making caramels by hand and giving them to relatives for the holidays. The reaction she got to these incredibly luscious treats inspired her to sell them by the pound, in 10 flavors as varied as cayenne, coconut, cashew, and, of course, chocolate.
September 18, 1993 |
Jazzmatazz, Vol. 1, the first solo project by Guru, of the rap duo Gang Starr, is subtitled An Experimental Fusion of Hip-Hop and Jazz. Word to the Guru: Take it back to the lab. At Chestnut Cabaret on Wednesday night, the rhythmic rap quartet Gumbo opened the show. Gumbo's debut Dropping Soulful H2O on the Fiber was produced by Speech of Arrested Development, and, not surprisingly, the Milwaukee group traffics in an Afro-centric hip-hop that disses gangstas and preaches respect for women.
August 31, 2008 |
It's a pity the Geneva Conventions haven't been invoked to end the cruel abuses regularly inflicted on Cajun and Creole cuisine hereabouts - horrible bread suffocating the po'boy, gumbos salty beyond belief, gummy rice, unrecognizable jambalaya, odd olive salads that insult the great state of Louisiana. I have taken to squirming and averting my eyes upon encountering Cajun-themed eateries, unleashed by the blackened-redfish craze of the 1980s, still popping up now and then, often in the worst of all possible hands.