Hummus

FOR MORE THAN a decade, a little company at 5th and Spring Garden streets has been quietly feeding into a burgeoning food obsession. Hummus. Not just any hummus: Bobbi's hummus. This creamy, garlic-laced concoction was first sold in small quantities 16 years ago in specialty shops and local food co-ops. But in the past few years, thanks to a growing love for the chickpea-based dip, Bobbi's is expanding it customer base in local supermarkets such as Whole Foods, ShopRite and McCaffrey's in Bucks County.

Imagine an evolutionary timeline of party spreads and dips. It would show salsa eventually replacing the 1970s sour-cream-and-onion mix called California Dip and then morphing into hummus, which is now omnipresent. But "hummus" made of pureed vegetables is positioning itself to take over when the ancient Middle Eastern spread, which is made of chickpeas and tahini (sesame paste), wears out its welcome. This is not to say that the popular pita-bread accompaniment is stepping down any time soon.

If you think all Middle Eastern cuisine is the same, then a trip to the 4-week-old Manakeesh Cafe Bakery will dispel that myth. Actually, there are regional differences and influences. When physician Wissam Chatila set about opening a bakery and cafe at 45th and Walnut, in University City, it evolved into a taste of his native Beirut - a blend of European cuisine and spices from the Middle East. General Manager Abd Ghazzawi grew up around the corner from the rehabbed bank building that houses Manakeesh.

Ethnic eats are fun all on their own. But when you can dine with someone from that culture, it's like finding the secret ingredient to a recipe. So it happened to be fate that Amy Riolo was in town promoting "Nile Style," her new book on Egyptian cuisine and culture, the same day I was dining with visiting Egyptian reporter, Emad Fekry. Chef/owner of Aya's Cafe on Arch Street near Logan Square, Tarek AlBasti is from Egypt, although his culinary mentor is from Italy and his early training focused on Italian cuisine.

What: Athenos Travelers (hummus and pita snack kits) Maker: Churny Co. Where: Acme, Genuardi's, Pathmark and other major markets Size: 5 ounces (3 ounces hummus and 5 pita dippers) Price: $1.99 As a wholesome, adult snack this has promise, and 13 to 15 grams of mostly monounsaturated fats from olive oil. At 330 calories, it provides 8 grams of protein, 4 grams of fiber, and 15 percent daily value of iron. Sodium is high at one-third of daily value. Tasting: Those who have never tried the real thing may find this passable.

Passover doesn't have to mean tasteless brisket or leaden matzoh balls. Try a few of Joe Carver's innovative recipes for the holiday this year. First, here's his Manischewitz contest-winning recipe for Falafel Pizza. FALAFEL PIZZA 1 box falafel mix 1 jar hummus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 cucumber 4 ounces black olives 4 ounces stuffed green olives 1 kosher dill pickle 2 tablespoons dried or chopped fresh oregano 1 tomato Salt and pepper to taste Preheat a broiler to high.

Nearly a year and a half after development began, chef Joseph Scarpone has unveiled Agiato (4359 Main St., 215-482-9700), a rustic, cozy paninoteca/enoteca dominated by a 14-seat communal table and featuring a simple menu of salads, soups, and sandwiches (most pressed, about $10 each). There's a coffee bar and 25 to 30 wines by the glass, 60 by the bottle. It's open daily from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.; weekend breakfast will start Saturday. Scarpone got on the local culinary map with Sovalo, a now-closed bistro in Northern Liberties.

If you can't afford an Aegean holiday, grab a bottle of Greek wine and head for the Greek Village Taverna on South Street, where the taramasalata is fishing-village fresh and the atmosphere is warm and homey. This is a relatively new place - nine months old - that already seems like an old hand at conjuring up images of a taverna on Rhodes, or a country spot somewhere north of Athens. It's rustic and basic, but not without an artistic touch. Decorations, which are minimal, range from the huge watering can on the stairwell to bright prints on the stucco-like walls.

Mezze - an array of small appetizers served on miniature oval trays - is the most famous feature of the lavish Middle Eastern kitchen. Today, mezze is so popular that mainstream restaurants list it among their regular hors d'oeuvres. Mezze (pronounced MEZ-eh) is found mainly in Middle Eastern restaurants. But elements of mezze - stuffed grape leaves and hummus, for example - are easy to find at gourmet takeout counters and in Middle Eastern specialty shops. A mezze buffet could include homemade foods mixed with take-out.

The shoe-box-size lockers throughout Arpeggio puzzled me as I scanned the dining room during dinner. One of the BYO's owners later told me that there's a waiting list for the cubbies, a gift for the restaurant's regulars who want to keep their wine in-house. But customers aren't heading to this bustling, suburban-trendy restaurant for its storage facilities. They're likely going for Arpeggio's Italian and Middle Eastern dishes, examples of two cultures mixing successfully on one menu.

If you think all Middle Eastern cuisine is the same, then a trip to the 4-week-old Manakeesh Cafe Bakery will dispel that myth. Actually, there are regional differences and influences. When physician Wissam Chatila set about opening a bakery and cafe at 45th and Walnut, in University City, it evolved into a taste of his native Beirut - a blend of European cuisine and spices from the Middle East. General Manager Abd Ghazzawi grew up around the corner from the rehabbed bank building that houses Manakeesh.

Nearly a year and a half after development began, chef Joseph Scarpone has unveiled Agiato (4359 Main St., 215-482-9700), a rustic, cozy paninoteca/enoteca dominated by a 14-seat communal table and featuring a simple menu of salads, soups, and sandwiches (most pressed, about $10 each). There's a coffee bar and 25 to 30 wines by the glass, 60 by the bottle. It's open daily from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.; weekend breakfast will start Saturday. Scarpone got on the local culinary map with Sovalo, a now-closed bistro in Northern Liberties.

Here is an excerpt from Craig LaBan's online chat. Reader: Where was that food truck you mentioned a few weeks ago near the Wharton school? Craig LaBan: Yue Kee is located on the west side of 38th Street, just south of Walnut. Be sure to call at least 20-25 minutes ahead to place your order (610-812-7189). Reader: Last week I went for a midweek dinner at Zahav. I was looking forward to it since I've heard/read great reviews. And while I did have a nice dinner there, and the service was wonderful, too, I wasn't blown away by it. I wonder if it has to do with the hype around it and expecting too much.

Ethnic eats are fun all on their own. But when you can dine with someone from that culture, it's like finding the secret ingredient to a recipe. So it happened to be fate that Amy Riolo was in town promoting "Nile Style," her new book on Egyptian cuisine and culture, the same day I was dining with visiting Egyptian reporter, Emad Fekry. Chef/owner of Aya's Cafe on Arch Street near Logan Square, Tarek AlBasti is from Egypt, although his culinary mentor is from Italy and his early training focused on Italian cuisine.

Imagine an evolutionary timeline of party spreads and dips. It would show salsa eventually replacing the 1970s sour-cream-and-onion mix called California Dip and then morphing into hummus, which is now omnipresent. But "hummus" made of pureed vegetables is positioning itself to take over when the ancient Middle Eastern spread, which is made of chickpeas and tahini (sesame paste), wears out its welcome. This is not to say that the popular pita-bread accompaniment is stepping down any time soon.

FOR MORE THAN a decade, a little company at 5th and Spring Garden streets has been quietly feeding into a burgeoning food obsession. Hummus. Not just any hummus: Bobbi's hummus. This creamy, garlic-laced concoction was first sold in small quantities 16 years ago in specialty shops and local food co-ops. But in the past few years, thanks to a growing love for the chickpea-based dip, Bobbi's is expanding it customer base in local supermarkets such as Whole Foods, ShopRite and McCaffrey's in Bucks County.

Mmmmm, hummus. The tasty chickpea paste is the favorite foodstuff of the Zohan, the commando who dreams secretly of comb-outs. Zohan (Adam Sandler, with a credible Israeli accent) is the Jewish James Bond who snacks on hummus, brushes his teeth with it, uses it to tame the frizzies - and also to spackle the gaping plotholes of the unruly hank of slapstick, You Don't Mess With the Zohan . Wielding Uzi and blow-dryer with equal ease, Zohan is a macho boytoy who resembles the spawn of Eric Bana's muscular Mossad agent in Munich and Warren Beatty's hairstylist/womanizer in Shampoo . Given the Zohan's shaggy locks and biblical beard, it isn't readily apparent that hair care is an obsession with the Jewish James Bond.

Passover doesn't have to mean tasteless brisket or leaden matzoh balls. Try a few of Joe Carver's innovative recipes for the holiday this year. First, here's his Manischewitz contest-winning recipe for Falafel Pizza. FALAFEL PIZZA 1 box falafel mix 1 jar hummus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 cucumber 4 ounces black olives 4 ounces stuffed green olives 1 kosher dill pickle 2 tablespoons dried or chopped fresh oregano 1 tomato Salt and pepper to taste Preheat a broiler to high.

The co-owners of Tia Amore, a new Italian BYO on the main drag in Levittown, worked hard to transform the building. Tuncer "Tony" Biyik and Jodi Jacobson are new to the restaurant business, but they are partners in a construction firm. Despite their labor, I don't think the building's history was totally eradicated. From the outside, the squarish, window-fronted structure still recalls its years as a burger stand. Inside, there are slanting metal supports, rows of booths, and checkered ceiling tiles.

The shoe-box-size lockers throughout Arpeggio puzzled me as I scanned the dining room during dinner. One of the BYO's owners later told me that there's a waiting list for the cubbies, a gift for the restaurant's regulars who want to keep their wine in-house. But customers aren't heading to this bustling, suburban-trendy restaurant for its storage facilities. They're likely going for Arpeggio's Italian and Middle Eastern dishes, examples of two cultures mixing successfully on one menu.