April 12, 1996 |
No ice cream, gelati or frozen yogurt for us. That's wimp stuff for unfortunates in Akron and Tulsa. Water ice is Philadelphia's warm-weather treat. It's a cold sweet that makes a vanilla custard cone look as pathetic as a bologna and cheese next to a mushroom cheesesteak with sauce and onions. And the city's water ice stands are finally open. South Philly guys in the 1930s first sold water ice - chipped ice laced with fruit juice - from pushcarts. These days machines mix the water, sugar and fruit, but tradition is still a major part of water ice culture.
May 23, 1986 |
With the Memorial Day weekend here, it's the season for picnics, jaunts to the shore and Poconos - and homemade Italian water ice. The cool warm-weather treat makes the summer heat easier to tolerate. "I love water ice," says Nora Italiano, with enthusiasm. She makes one of the city's better ices at her Mom & Pop & Kids operation, 12th and Shunk in South Philly. A lemon crate sitting on the step in front of her shop, and two more inside, tip off the fact that lemon is her best-selling flavor.
November 7, 1990 |
Bobbi Katz has been making her incredibly good hummus for nearly 20 years, but instead of stirring up a batch to take to a party, she's making it in vats these days. And sending it to supermarkets. Harriet's Favorite Hummus, which won a Philadelphia Magazine "Best of Philly" award this year, is not your traditional, find-it-in-any-veggie- cookbook hummus. Sure it has lots of chickpeas, garlic, fresh-squeezed lemon juice and a little olive oil . . . but there's also ginseng in it. And it's missing tahini - sesame seed butter - which means it's lower in fat than many other hummus recipes and more lemony tasting.
October 18, 2007 |
In One-Bowl Meals (Ryland, Peters & Small, $12.95), British food editor Tonia George offers just 28 recipes, but every one is a temptation. George combines simplified style with basic ingredients and creative twists - as in deep-fried eggs or a grappa-laced three-cheese risotto. Her recipes are different enough to pique jaded taste buds, yet familiar enough to fall in most comfort zones, such as these lamb chops with lemon-mint marinade and cumin served with mashed chickpeas and roasted tomatoes.
April 15, 1992 |
Greek food is something that often comes to mind during the Easter season. The elaborate pageants held at many Greek Orthodox churches, followed by a joyous lamb feast, are all intriguing. But down through the centuries, during the seven weeks of Lent, those of the Greek Orthodox faith were forbidden to eat any animal product - meat, fish, eggs, butter, milk and cheese. The practice came about so that the believer might abstain from food containing blood or any food product derived from one having blood.
October 22, 1986 |
Every once in a while I get a yen for veal, and when I doll amounts for one-person servings, I generally buy four chops and cook two very different meals. I like to use the chops, flattened and minus bone, for the breaded dish so I can save the bones for the next day's meal, giving the rice dish extra flavor. TARRAGON VEAL CUTLETS 2 small veal chops, about 1/2 inch thick, or 1 large veal cutlet 1 small egg 1/3 cup seasoned bread crumbs 2 teaspoons dry tarragon, crushed 1/4 teaspoon garlic salt 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper Butter or oil for frying 1/2 lemon, cut into two wedges If using veal chops, remove meat from bone and reserve bones in refrigerator for future use. Pound meat between two sheets of waxed paper until flattened.
February 8, 1989 |
Bali, the traveler's crown jewel of Indonesia, is a tiny dot in a string of tropical islands between the Java Sea and the Indian Ocean. Its palm-fringed hillsides are carved into rice paddy terraces that mirror the sky in the bright sunshine. Not the least of Bali's charms is its food, a conflagration of spices, truly a paradise for chili-lovers! The diet's mainstay is rice - they grow three crops a year - augmented by wonderful tropical fruits, vegetables and other foods. Balinese-style cooking is easily adapted to American kitchens, and beef is included in the recipes.
January 9, 1998 |
Wallace Shawn doesn't want you to have a good time at the theater. He doesn't want you to leave feeling entertained, or instructed, or purged, or uplifted, or validated, or anything else that might suggest that a play of his did anything other than pose a vital question. He would be quite happy, though, if you left feeling honked off - at either the ideas in his play or the method by which they're presented. That would mean you paid attention. Shawn is a moralist masquerading as a playwright, a man who believes that if audiences are to respond to the theater's only legitimate purpose, which is to help us understand our world and cure its ills, they must be disabused of the idea that the playwright can do their work for them.
March 1, 1989 |
It's a jungle in there. Rummaging through the underbrush in the inner reaches of a refrigerator, one can capture a miniature menagerie of lemon bits and onion fragments, a tad of tomato paste, a lonely anchovy or a solitary sardine. Perhaps a half-eaten container of yogurt or a deserted celery stalk. Beneath veils of plastic wrap and shields of foil hide the remnants of bygone recipes, destined either for disposal or resurrection. The choice is yours. We vote for resurrection.
January 20, 2011 |
After three years, a crippling recession, and an armed robbery, Under the Oak Cafe in East Oak Lane is more than enduring - it is expanding, with Saturday morning cooking classes, Friday night gourmet dinners, and a newly hired, French-trained chef. The cafe, opened in 2008 by the husband-and-wife team of Robert and Kelly McShain Tyree, plus Kelly's brother, Devitt McShain, sits on an isolated street with almost no foot traffic. "It was definitely a risk. People told us we were crazy to open here," says Kelly Tyree, who was raised in East Oak Lane and lives there still.