May 25, 1986 |
With its high visibility along Lancaster Avenue, Baxter's Saloon & Eatery is bound to catch your eye. But you probably should just blink and keep going, for this new Berwyn restaurant offers haphazardly served processed food and is hardly worth a visit; indeed, with its emphasis on the saloon rather than the eatery, Baxter's seems more attuned to people meeting after work than for serious dining. Astonishingly, Baxter's seems to have pretensions of grandeur by asserting that it is a "regular" restaurant with standard entrees; unfortunately, the menu shipped over from the Baxter's outlet in Paoli lists only six "dinner specials" among a host of finger-food items such as potato skins, nachos, cheese sticks or chicken strips, appetizers designed for nibbling with one hand while holding a drink in the other.
April 19, 1987 |
The setting sun streaks the silvery Delaware River with red; abandoned pilings jut skyward as the city lights of Wilmington twinkle in the gathering dusk. That is the springtime view through the picture windows of the Riverview Inn, a comfortable riverside restaurant in Pennsville that has become Salem County's premier dining place. With soft peach and green colors, the huge main dining room exudes a quiet, restful atmosphere, even on busy weekend nights. The big windows that face the Delaware are framed with woodwork stained light green, while matching latticework embraces the doorways.
July 27, 1994 |
The first surprising thing about the Old Original Bookbinder's Restaurant Cookbook ($12.95) is that the author, Judith Frazin, is from California. The second is that this restaurant, so associated with seafood, has so many meat, poultry and pasta recipes in its cookbook. Proprietor John E. Taxin explained that Frazin, a family friend, took on the task of collecting a new group of recipes because the first cookbook was "so outdated. " It was published more than 30 years ago, making it older than Taxin, the third generation of his family to run Bookbinder's.
March 30, 1994 |
Healthy eating is a goal for just about everybody these days. Green salads, plenty of vegetables and low-fat alternatives to meat are the features of this month's Affordable Feast. This simple Southern-style meal for four is nutritionally correct, except perhaps for its sinful dessert. The dishes are all easy to prepare from supermarket ingredients at a cost of under $20. Here is our menu for this month: COMBINATION GREEN SALAD MIXED FISH CREOLE CHEESE RICE SOUTHERN PRALINES Combination Green Salad is a fresh meal starter based on three green vegetables.
November 1, 1992 |
With an incomparable setting and exciting, almost spectacular, cuisine, the new Perkiomen Bridge Hotel & Restaurant is nearly in a class by itself. After being closed for three years, the charming Collegeville place was reopened May 6. Part of its wonderful rambling building dates to 1699. That was the same year that a graceful stone bridge, still standing, was built across the Perkiomen Creek; a duplicate of the bridge is in France. It is difficult to decide which is more impressive, the setting or the cuisine.
September 25, 1987 |
Something happens to my stomach when I see rich guys who own sports franchises acting as if they owned the players. Something happens to my stomach when I see rich guys who own sports franchises accepting televised congratulations for the championships their teams have won. Something happens everytime George Steinbrenner (Yankees) or Harold Katz (76ers) or any of the others opens his mouth to complain about the "character" of the players they employ. If character counted, half of the jock sniffers who own professional teams wouldn't own their own shoes.
May 22, 1988 |
Don't expect to discover Chinatown's newest Vietnamese restaurant. Although Capital Vietnam is less than two months old, crowds already have found it, and unless you arrive in midafternoon or late evening, you may well have to wait for a table. Capital's decor is virtually nonexistent, and when I made the mistake of looking into the kitchen on a second visit, I was relieved that my mother hadn't caught sight of the clutter and chaos when she and I first went there. The largely Asian clientele obviously goes there for authentic eats and not for style.
July 19, 1991 |
It's only two blocks long, but it has its own post office, a bank, a credit bureau, a daily newspaper, security guards, street cleaners, millionaires, paupers and a restaurant that serves pot roast at 6 a.m. On the premises are a force of 20 federal experts to referee disputes and a full-time Philadelphia cop to referee disputes that pass beyond just words. It's the Philadelphia Fresh Food Terminal, where the law of supply and demand operates in its purest form and the action is more intense than at a casino.
October 27, 2000 |
As soon as you walk through the door of Kuk Il House, you can smell it: the smoke from grilling meat. My friend Jason had taken me on a trek to the Northeast to sample the flavors of this Korean barbecue house, and there was no doubt about what it served. On a weekday, the atmosphere was casual and low-key (Jason described it as "church recreation hall"), with groups of friends or family members gathered around the smoldering barbecue set into each table. Above each table was a low-hanging exhaust fan. The novelty here, you see, is that you cook your own food at the table.
July 7, 1989 |
One of the great things about El Kibuk, a Cuban restaurant on North Fifth Street, is that even when they're out of something on the menu, they can improvise and come up with a dish you might like even more. No picadillo a la criolla (Cuban-style chopped meat)? Then try the ropa vieja (shredded beef). Out of lettuce? How about a delicious salad made with rings of onions, sliced tomatoes, minced pimentos and cold cooked peas. Top it with fresh lime juice. El Kibuk is on the fringe of the city's major Hispanic area, about two blocks before Roosevelt Boulevard when traveling north on Fifth Street.