July 24, 2015 |
Here is an excerpt from Craig LaBan's online chat of July 21, 2015: Reader: Have you had a chance to eat at Rex 1516 since Justin Swain has been cooking there? There's a great rotating burger for $15, and a really good old fashioned. That stretch of South Street has come a long way. (RIP Ron's Ribs.) Craig LaBan: Yes! I've definitely been back. Wrote about Swain's burger talents in January. Rex should definitely be on any burger-lover's tour of Philly. And South Street West has come a long way . . . but it's still got plenty of room to grow until it's producing the kind of sophisticated restaurants East Passyunk is. I'm excited to see the new taqueria from the Hawthornes folks.
December 1, 2014 |
They say one healthy choice leads to another. So it seemed fitting that I discovered a health-food store on the way home from my new gym. The store is Health & Harmony, and to pass through its doors is to enter the rabbit hole of rabbit food. I don't mean Kashi cereal or that Greek yogurt John Stamos sells. Uncle Jesse is for amateurs. This was some next-level, Goop.com kind of stuff. The dairy aisle isn't hemmed in by the confines of a cow. There's almond milk, coconut milk, soy milk, Tofutti cream cheese, anything but milk from a mammal.
October 5, 2014 |
Eric Frein is surviving in the woods by eating cans of tuna fish and ramen noodles, police said Friday. But they say they believe his food supply is dwindling, and that with Frein's diminishing resources and the weather beginning to chill, they will soon be able to catch the self-styled survivalist. "I'm more confident than ever that he's stressed," State Police Lt. Col. George Bivens said. "It's only a matter of time. " At a 25-minute news briefing Friday afternoon, Bivens offered few new details on the three-week-old manhunt for Frein, who is accused of killing one state trooper and injuring another in a Sept.
January 3, 2014 |
When Michael Solomonov was cooking at Striped Bass a decade ago, his pastrami-spiced gravlax was something of a novelty. Today, though, the smoky, briny, spicy preparation is being applied to just about everything, from the brisket with pastrami jus at Sbraga to pastrami-smoked chioggia beets at Vedge. That's no coincidence. Flavors from the old-school Jewish deli - think rye bread, bagel toppings, and a schmear of schmaltz - are among the food trends expected to bubble to the top in 2014, according to forecasters.
July 27, 2013 |
A version of this review appeared in the Shore Dining Guide. Revel survived the hurricane but has been under water of a different sort - a bankruptcy it emerged from in May. Of course I knew Revel had issues last year when, during my review of the new casino's restaurants, I shook my head at the lack of an Asian noodle bar. Coincidence that a noodle bar, Yuboka, was one of the first new orders of business? I think not. It may surprise some that Jose Garces has been tapped to run it. But he does have some Asian experience with Chifa, and the sectioned-off platform of raised counter seats, set between the gambling floor and Amada, is already a bustling hub of noodle-slurping and steamer-basket feasts.
May 20, 2013
First came the hand-drawn vermicelli, then the soup dumplings, bubble tea, and ramen. Philly's Chinatown has been slowly but surely acquiring a number of Asian street foods that are the stuff of obsession elsewhere. The latest arrivals, popularized by Xi'an Famous Foods in New York, are these Xi'an liang pi noodles at the two-month-old Happy Noodle Bar on Race Street. Yes, the Chinese "burger" might catch more eyes, its zesty minced pork and chiles sandwiched between what looks like a Chinese English muffin.
April 18, 2013 |
I try to buy produce locally and cook it seasonally. But there comes a time in late winter-early spring when I can't bear to roast another Brussels sprout, bake another sweet potato, or massage another leaf of kale into submission. That's when I buy broccoli grown who knows where and transported to my friendly neighborhood Whole Foods Market. Call it a bridge to the days of peas and asparagus. Once I get it home, I usually douse it with curry powder and roast it, or microwave it and finish it under the broiler.
April 4, 2013
OF ALL THE topics that diners tend to fuss over, "authenticity" is the fussiest to understand. Just listen to one of the food scene's more talented over-thinkers run a restaurant through his or her analytical atom smasher and you might agree. The quantitative critiques - service, prices, vibe - are all there, but things get weird once culinary credibility undergoes cross-examination. Is it "authentic" to use this sauce? In that soup, is marjoram an "authentic" garnish? Was the pot used to braise tonight's pork wrapped in indigenous leaves, buried beneath loose earth and gently attended by a pitmaster with Taíno ancestry?
March 7, 2013
Here is an excerpt from Craig LaBan's online chat from March 5: Craig LaBan: What's been making your dinners, drinks, and snacks happy? My new invention to keep the kids from fighting at dinner? Personal nachos! Made these babies to order - chili for some, black beans for others, hold the salsa, heavy on the cheese - all a hit thanks to those addictive, amazing fresh chips from Tortilleria San Roman in the Italian Market. Are they the best chips on earth? ¡Creo que sí!
January 31, 2013 |
These noodles are a fun and approachable dish good for a busy weeknight or to celebrate Chinese New Year. Shrimp and Shiitake Noodle Stir-Fry Makes 4 servings 2 tablespoons sesame oil 1 small sweet onion, sliced 7 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, thinly sliced 1 red bell pepper, cored and thinly sliced 91/2-ounce package thick Asian-style noodles, such as udon ...